Works of Charles and Mary Lamb. VI-VII. Letters
Charles Lamb to Thomas Manning, [23 February 1805]
16 Mitre-court Buildings,
Saturday, 24th [i.e., 23rd] Feb.,
1805.
DEAR Manning,—I have been very unwell since I saw you. A sad depression
of spirits, a most unaccountable nervousness; from which I have been partially
relieved by an odd accident. You knew Dick Hopkins, the
swearing scullion of Caius? This fellow, by industry and agility, has thrust
himself into the important situations (no sinecures, believe me) of cook to
Trinity Hall and Caius College: and the generous creature has contrived with
the greatest delicacy imaginable, to send me a present of Cambridge brawn. What
makes it the more extraordinary is, that the man never saw me in his life that
I know of. I suppose he has heard of me. I did not
immediately recognise the donor; but one of
Richard’s cards, which had accidentally fallen
into the straw, detected him in a moment. Dick, you know,
was always remarkable for flourishing. His card imports, that “orders
(to wit, for brawn), from any part of England, Scotland, or Ireland, will
be duly executed,” &c. At first, I thought of declining the
present; but Richard knew my blind side when he pitched
upon brawn. ’Tis of all my hobbies the supreme in the eating way. He
might have sent sops from the pan, skimmings, crumplets, chips, hog’s
lard, the tender brown judiciously scalped from a fillet of veal (dexterously
replaced by a salamander), the tops of asparagus, fugitive livers, runaway
gizzards of fowls, the eyes of martyred pigs, tender effusions of laxative
woodcocks, the red spawn of lobsters, leverets’ ears, and such pretty
filchings common to cooks;
but these had been
ordinary presents, the everyday courtesies of dishwashers to their sweethearts.
Brawn was a noble thought. It is not every common gullet-fancier that can
properly esteem it. It is like a picture of one of the choice old Italian
masters. Its gusto is of that hidden sort. As Wordsworth sings of a modest poet,—“you must love him,
ere to you he will seem worthy of your love;” so brawn, you must
taste it, ere to you it will seem to have any taste at all. But ’tis nuts
to the adept: those that will send out their tongues and feelers to find it
out. It will be wooed, and not unsought be won. Now, ham-essence, lobsters,
turtle, such popular minions, absolutely court you, lay
themselves out to strike you at first smack, like one of David’s pictures (they call him Darveed), compared with the plain russet-coated wealth
of a Titian or a Correggio, as I illustrated above. Such are
the obvious glaring heathen virtues of a corporation dinner, compared with the
reserved collegiate worth of brawn. Do me the favour to leave off the business
which you may be at present upon, and go immediately to the kitchens of Trinity
and Caius, and make my most respectful compliments to Mr. Richard
Hopkins, and assure him that his brawn is most excellent; and
that I am moreover obliged to him for his innuendo about salt water and bran,
which I shall not fail to improve. I leave it to you whether you shall choose
to pay him the civility of asking him to dinner while you stay in Cambridge, or
in whatever other way you may best like to show your gratitude to my friend. Richard Hopkins,
considered in many points of view, is a very extraordinary character. Adieu: I
hope to see you to supper in London soon, where we will taste
Richard’s brawn, and drink his health in a
cheerful but moderate cup. We have not many such men in any rank of life as
Mr. R. Hopkins. Crisp the barber,
of St. Mary’s, was just such another. I wonder he never sent me any
little token, some chestnuts, or a puff, or two pound of hair just to remember
him by; gifts are like nails. Præsens ut
absens, that is, your present makes
amends for your absence.
Yours,
Jacques-Louis David (1748-1825)
French neoclassical painter and republican supporter of the Revolution.
Thomas Manning (1772-1840)
Educated at Caius College, Cambridge, he traveled in China and Tibet, and was a life-long
friend of Charles Lamb.
Titian (1487 c.-1576)
Venetian painter celebrated for his portraits.
William Wordsworth (1770-1850)
With Coleridge, author of
Lyrical Ballads (1798), Wordsworth
survived his early unpopularity to succeed Robert Southey as poet laureate in 1843.