Memoirs of the Life of Sir Walter Scott, Bart.
Sir Walter Scott to James Skene, 25 November 1831
“Malta, Nov. 25, 1831.
“Our habits of non-correspondence are so firmly
established, that it must be a matter of some importance that sets either of us
a writing to the other. As it has been my lot to see the new volcano, called
Graham’s Island, either employed in establishing itself, or more likely
in decomposing itself and as it must be an object of much curiosity to many of
our brethren of the Royal Society, I have taken it into my head that even the
very imperfect account which I can give of a matter of this extraordinary kind
may be in some degree valued. Not being able to borrow your fingers, those of
the Captain’s clerk have been put in requisition for the inclosed sketch,
and the notes adjoined are as accurate as can be expected from a hurried visit.
You have a view of the island, very much
326 | LIFE OF SIR WALTER SCOTT. | |
as it shows at present, but nothing is more certain than
that it is on the eve of a very important change, though in what respect is
doubtful. I saw a portion of about five or six feet in height give way under
the feet of one of our companions on the very ridge of the southern corner, and
become completely annihilated, giving us some anxiety for the fate of our
friend, till the dust and confusion of the dispersed pinnacle had subsided. You
know my old talents for horsemanship. Finding the earth, or what seemed a
substitute for it, sink at every step up to the knee, so as to make walking for
an infirm and heavy man nearly impossible, I mounted the shoulders of an able
and willing seaman, and by dint of his exertions rode nearly to the top of the
island. I would have given a great deal for you, my friend, the frequent and
willing supplier of my defects; but on this journey, though undertaken late in
life, I have found, from the benevolence of my companions, that when one
man’s strength was insufficient to supply my deficiencies, I had the
willing aid of twenty if it could be useful. I have sent you one of the largest
blocks of lava which I could find on the islet, though small pieces are
innumerable. We found two dolphins, killed apparently by the hot temperature,
and the body of a robin redbreast, which seemingly had come off from the
nearest land, and starved to death on the islet, where it had neither found
food nor water. Such had been the fate of the first attempt to stock the island
with fish and fowl. On the south side the volcanic principle was still
apparently active. The perpetual bubbling up from the bottom produces a
quantity of steam, which rises all around the base of the island, and surrounds
it as with a cloak when seen from a distance. Most of these appearances struck
the other gentlemen, I believe, as well as myself; but a gentleman who has
visited the rock repeatedly, is of | GRAHAM’S ISLAND—NOV. 1831. | 327 |
opinion that it is certainly
increasing in magnitude. Its decrease in height may be consistent with the
increase of its more level parts, and even its general appearance above water;
for the ruins which crumble down from the top, are like to remain at the bottom
of the ridge of the rock, add to the general size of the islet, and tend to
give the ground firmness.
“The gales of this new-born island are any thing but
odoriferous. Brimstone, and such like, are the prevailing savours, to a degree
almost suffocating. Every hole dug in the sand is filled with boiling water, or
what was nearly such. I cannot help thinking that the great ebullition in the
bay, is the remains of the original crater, now almost filled up, yet still
showing that some extraordinary operations are going on in the subterranean
regions.
“If you think, my dear Skene, that any of these trifling particulars concerning this
islet can interest our friends, you are free to communicate them either to the
Society or to the Club, as you judge most proper. I have just seen James* in full health, but he vanished like a
guilty thing, when, forgetting that I was a contraband commodity, I went to
shake him by the hand, which would have cost him ten days’ imprisonment,
I being at present in quarantine.
“We saw an instance of the strictness with which
this law is observed: In entering the harbour, a seaman was pushed from our
yard-arm. He swam strongly, notwithstanding the fall, but the Maltese boats, of
whom there were several, tacked from him, to avoid picking him up, and an
English Boat, which did take the poor man in, was condemned to ten days’
imprisonment, to reward
328 | LIFE OF SIR WALTER SCOTT. | |
the benevolence of the action. It is in the capacity of
quarantine prisoners that we now inhabit the decayed chambers of a magnificent
old Spanish palace, which resembles the pantaloons of the Don in his youth, a world too wide for his shrunk
shanks. But you know Malta, where there is more magnificence than comfort,
though we have met already many friends, and much kindness.
“My best compliments to Mrs Skene, to whom I am bringing a fairy cup made out of a
Nautilus shell—the only one which I found entire on Graham’s Island; the
original owner had suffered shipwreck. I beg to be respectfully remembered to
all friends of the Club.—Yours ever, with love to your fireside,
James Skene of Rubislaw (1775-1864)
A life-long friend of Sir Walter Scott, who dedicated a canto of
Marmion to him.
James Henry Skene (1812-1886)
Son os James Skene, friend of Sir Walter Scott; after a military career he entered the
diplomatic service under Lord Stratford de Redcliffe and was consul-general at
Aleppo.
Jane Skene (1787-1862)
The daughter of Sir William Forbes of Pitsligo (1739-1806); in 1806 she married James
Skene. Both Skenes were friends of Sir Walter Scott.