34 | MEMOIRS ON GREECE. |
On the 8th of December I left Argostoli for Mesolonghi,
accompanied by Caraiscachi, who, regardless of the
state of his health, and the danger to which he exposed it by undertaking so long and so
fatiguing a journey, at the very worst period, too, of the rainy season, could no longer
control his impatience of revenge; having just heard of the numerous persecutions his rival
Rangos had inflicted on his adherents in the
province of Agrapha. He vented the bitterest rage against the Greek government, by which
his adversary had been authorised to dispossess him of a province, he considered as his
legitimate conquest; as he had driven out the Turks who occupied it, long before the above
power existed, with no other aid than the valour of his own followers. The chief complaint,
which the government had to allege against him, and in fact against every capitano of the
provinces on the borders, was their treacherous conduct towards their own countrymen, and
the friendly footing on which they stood with the enemy, the Albanians. These two races of
Turks having, from their youth upwards, lived in the closest intimacy, had become familiar
with each other’s habits and language, and were enemies only in appearance. A tacit
agreement existed between them not to oppose one another’s depredations; and in
several
MEMOIRS ON GREECE. | 35 |
So wonderful, sometimes, is the stimulus imparted by the passions to the
body, that Caraiscachi, who, a moment before, could
with difficulty crawl about his room, now mounted his horse, and was himself again. His
dark scintillating eye, though deeply sunk in its socket, attested, by its fierce glances,
that, reduced as he was outwardly, his mind remained the same. The folds of a yellow
ceshmeere, twisted negligently, in the Albanian manner, round his head and the sides of the
face, gave to his sallow and emaciated
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During our excursion I witnessed, for the first time, a custom which I afterwards found prevalent throughout Greece. Two young women sat on a rock overlooking the road, rending the air with the most shrill and piercing screams, and each tearing her dishevelled hair, lacerating her face with her nails, and with clenched fists striking her breast. They were the very picture of despair, rendered more impressive, perhaps, by the wild and solitary scenery around. Moved as I was myself, I observed an indifference in my fellow-travellers for which I could not account. On asking the Cephaloniot, who accompanied our mules, what could occasion the cries of these unfortunate women, he coolly replied that they were bewailing the death of their mother, who had died a few days before. As long as the season of mourning lasts, custom, it seems, obliges the female relatives of the deceased to meet at intervals, which gradually become more and more distant, and thus publicly express their grief. Every district has its peculiar chant; some of which are exceedingly affecting and melancholy, while others resemble rather the yelping of jackalls than the cries of human beings. The Mainots content themselves, after approaching the corpse, with crying three times, with a loud plaintive voice, Adelphe! adelphe! adelphe! which, after a few minutes of silent contemplation, they sigh out again, and, after impressing the last kiss of friendship, depart. The Suliot women gather round the coffin, and rehearse by turns the principal actions of the life of the deceased.
On our arrival at St. Euphemia we were kindly entertained by Mr.
T. Caraiscachi, who took a pleasure in relating to us how he had acquired
the various rich
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After staying here a day, we crossed over to Ithaca, and landed at the foot
of a mountain called Aito. The old woman, who accompanied Caraiscachi,
and who had attended him during his illness, lighted a fire, and after spreading a napkin
on the pebbles, in a few minutes prepared us some food. Her withered cheeks and forbidding
looks reminded me forcibly of the old hag, that Gil
Blas met with in the robbers’
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Hardly had we terminated our meal, when the female porters, that had been sent from Valhi to convey our luggage, appeared. Proceeding on our journey, after climbing a steep woody ascent, we saw, to the left, a hill, on which are the ruins of the palace and city of Ulysses. This part of what were once the dominions of this crafty chieftain is little favoured by nature: it consists almost entirely of barren mountains, affording scarcely sufficient sustenance to a few goats. The modern capital, named, probably from its position, Valhi, is soon after seen, situate close to the beach at the end of the bay, which forms one of the best harbours in the Ionian islands. The land is cultivated with much industry, and produces currants, from which a wine is made that, in appearance and flavour, may vie with port, and is considered by the faculty, on the neighbouring continent, as excellent for convalescents. Captain Knox, the English resident, was carrying into execution the instructions, he had received, to macadamize the roads of this island; but bitter complaints on this account were made here, as in the other islands, by its narrow-minded inhabitants, who, accustomed from infancy to bad roads, preferred submitting to the greatest inconvenience, rather than pay contributions, or work for an object, of which they did not perceive the immediate necessity. Constraint alone can rouse the Ionians from the apathy and laziness, which their former rulers, the Venetians, along with their other vices, have entailed upon them.
There existed, however, it must be owned, causes of complaint, better
founded than this to justify the discontent of the Ionians against the English. I refer to
the hostile spirit, manifested by Sir T. Mait-
MEMOIRS ON GREECE. | 39 |
Two days after my arrival in Ithaca, an event took place, that worked so
powerfully on the islanders as to put an end to all dissimulation, and the interest they
felt for the success of their compatriots at once burst forth. Before daybreak a brisk
cannonade was heard in the direction of the Scrofes; and as soon as a report came that the
Greek fleet had engaged some Turkish vessels, the whole population rushed up the mountain,
close to the town, commanding a view of the whole coast of Acarnania, Ætolia, and the
cluster of islands, down to the entrance of the Gulf of Patras. The engagement was between
a Turkish brig of twenty-two guns and ten Greek vessels, which had arrived during the night
off the
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Early the next morning Captain Knox sent to request me to call upon him. After stating the melancholy situation of these poor wretches, he told me that, for several reasons, he could not send any of the native practitioners to attend them; and as Mr. Scott, the surgeon of the garrison, was absent, he had no resource but in me for the performance of this duty of humanity. I complied with his request without a moment’s hesitation; and having furnished myself with what would be necessary on the occasion, repaired immediately to the lazaret. Never can I forget the impression, my appearance produced on these men! The sullen gloom of despair, pictured on their countenances, gave way to the smile of hope; and subsequently, by signs more eloquent than words, they testified the gratitude they felt for the attentions, I bestowed upon them. No pleasure can surpass what is experienced by a medical professor under such circumstances.
In the afternoon a Turk of note, an emir, formerly Cadi of Tripolitza, who
the day before had been left on the beach for dead, was brought into the lazaret; and the
ghastly features of death seemed indeed to be portrayed in his countenance. Being seated
among his countrymen, he feebly articulated the word tsiboug, a pipe; and it was no sooner brought him, than he seized
it with both hands, and swallowed its smoke with the same greediness that a man, famished
by thirst, would drink water. By degrees he gathered new life: the most generous cordial
could not have produced a more reviving
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