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Lady Morgan’s Memoirs
Chapter XXII
INTRODUCTION & INDEXES
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Preface
Vol. I Contents.
Prefatory Address
Chapter I
Chapter II
Chapter III
Chapter IV
Chapter V
Chapter VI
Chapter VII
Chapter VIII
Chapter IX
Chapter X
Chapter XI
Chapter XII
Chapter XIII
Chapter XIV
Chapter XV
Chapter XVI
Chapter XVII
Chapter XVIII
Chapter XIX
Chapter XX
Chapter XXI
Chapter XXII
Chapter XXIII
Chapter XXIV
Chapter XXV
Chapter XXVI
Chapter XXVII
Chapter XXVIII
Chapter XXIX
Chapter XXX
Chapter XXXI
Chapter XXXII
Chapter XXXIII
Chapter XXXIV
Chapter XXXV
Chapter XXXVI
Chapter XXXVII
Chapter XXXVIII
Vol. I Index
Vol. II Contents
Chapter I
Chapter II
Chapter III
Chapter IV
Chapter V
Chapter IV
Chapter VII
Chapter VIII
Chapter IX
Chapter X
Chapter XI
Chapter XII
Chapter XIII
Chapter XIV
Chapter XV
Chapter XVI
Chapter XVII
Chapter XVIII
Chapter XIX
Chapter XX
Chapter XXI
‣ Chapter XXII
Chapter XXIII
Chapter XXIV
Chapter XXV
Chapter XXVI
Chapter XXVII
Chapter XXVIII
Chapter XXIX
Chapter XXX
Chapter XXXI
Chapter XXXII
Chapter XXXIII
Chapter XXXIV
Chapter XXXV
Chapter XXXVI
Chapter XXXVII
Chapter XXXVIII
Chapter XXXIX
Chapter XL
Vol. II Index
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CHAPTER XXII.
DRAMATIC SCENES AND SKETCHES—1833.

The work on France, in 1829-30, was followed by Dramatic Scenes and Sketches, which were also published by Messrs. Saunders and Otley. Lady Morgan gave the work to them in the hope that it would prove some compensation for their disappointment about France, but they had not Colburn’s genius for making books sell, and though the Dramatic Scenes are amongst Lady Morgan’s best works, they had not the brilliant success which they deserved. The sum she received and the terms on which the work was published are not on record, but she retained the copyright for herself.

These Dramatic Scenes and Sketches are written in a very forcible and effective manner. They show the condition of Ireland as a country, and the state of the Irish peasantry, their sorrows and ignorance, the evil influence of agents and middlemen in the absenteeism of the landlords; the clashing pretensions of the High Protestant Church party with the priests, are excellently shown. The chief aim is to show the igno-
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rance and misconception which prevailed in England of the real condition and necessities of the country; the difficulties, almost impossibilities, thrown in the way of Irish landlords wishing to do their duty and to see with their own eyes what measures of reform and relief were urgently needed. The first Dramatic Sketch is called Manor Sackville, and the dramatic form of scene and dialogue allows every shade of character and situation to pass as over a magic lantern. For vigorous delineation and dialogue, it excels her novels,—the form gave her free scope. The dramatic sketch of Manor Sackville is the longest and the most important. It gives a lively picture of Irish country life, an old Irish mansion unexpectedly visited by its proprietor, an enlightened and benevolent man, accompanied by his wife, an amiable, fine lady, and a party of fashionable friends from London. The politics, cliques, and condition of the country, from the Honourable and Reverend Dr. Polypus, rector of Newtown, down to Cornelius Brian, a leader of White Feet, with agents, tithe proctors, Catholic priests, &c., are all vividly described and put into action. The result is, a picture of Ireland as it then existed.

The Irish politics and grievances make rather heavy metal for a book of amusement, but it is enlivened with some of the best touches of Lady Morgan’s Irish fun and humour. The other dramatic scenes are shorter, and are illustrations of different phases of English fashionable life.

Lady Morgan was peculiarly skilful in her delineations of English fashionable life. Her “great ladies”
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have all a cachet of belonging to the class for which they are intended; and there is, in all Lady Morgan’s “fine ladies,” an air of good breeding which distinguishes her fashionable scenes from the ordinary type of fashionable novels, and gives them all the air of scenes of real life. Although
Dramatic Scenes and Sketches had not the high tide of success which attended the O’Briens and O’Flaherties, it is a work which deserved it.


Here is a letter from M. Prosper Merrimé.

The graceful turn of the original is lost in the less flexible power of an English translation; but the style of M. Merrimé has a charm of its own, which cannot be altogether disguised by any disadvantages.

M. Prosper Merrimé to Lady Morgan.
January 2nd, 1833.

I feel very guilty, Madame, for not having sooner replied to your charming letter, brought to me by Mr. Chapman. Believe, however, that although I may have been slow to thank you for it, I have not felt the less sensible of your kind remembrance. I could have wished to be able to go in person and lay my works at your feet, to beg that you would grant me at once your pardon for my idleness, and your protection to travel in the route of Erin, of which land you are the fairy. Unhappily, bonds which are neither of silk nor of gold retain me in Paris. I can scarcely leave it,
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even for a day, to breathe the fresh air of St. Germains or St. Cloud. For the last three months I have been a creature half a man, half an arm-chair, feeding upon bulletins des lois, gravely renewing solicitations, and laughing sometimes when alone at the strange administrative face which is the result!

Public affairs will, however, Madame, leave leisure to read your works upon the present state of Ireland. The form you have given to it confirms me in an opinion I already held, that true talent can apply itself to every species of literature, and that you are as sure to charm your readers by your dramas as by your romances or your travels. Accept, I beg, Madame, all my own congratulations, and permit me to be the interpreter of those of my countrymen who have not, like myself, the honour of knowing you, but which they would address to you if they had.

I beg you to recall me to the remembrance of Miss Clarke, and of Sir Charles Morgan, and pray except the expression of my respectful homage.

Pr. Merrime.

The following notes of good-humoured badinage explain themselves. It must have been a great relief to the thorny State kept by a lord-lieutenant to be treated occasionally like a natural human being. The joke about Cæsar alludes to a “command night” at the theatre, where the play had been very hazardous, from its allusions.

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The Marquis of Anglesey to Lady Morgan.
[No date.]
Dear Lady Morgan,

I beg you to thank Mr. Bate doubly for me, as well for his having presented me with a portrait of my favourite boat, as for having sent it through your hands.

As you say he is an artist, may I not be permitted to remunerate him for his skill, and can you not help me to guess what will be acceptable?

But why quarrel with Cæsar? Cæsar was borne out by the results of last night. Cæsar took the bull by the horns, and he vanquished him. Depend upon it, it is the only safe way. See how the bull was tamed! He made no fight at all. But I must again defend Cæsar from the imputation of imprudence. He really, strange to say, knew nothing of the gist of the piece. Knowing it, however, he could not have chosen better; he gave his enemy fair play—fought him, as it were, upon his own ground, and beat him.

Seriously, I never was more surprised than last night. I own I fully expected a most tumultuous uproar, and lo! all was good humour, loyalty, and almost couleur de rose, as I shall be when I get my soirée.

I remain,
Dear Lady Morgan,
Very faithfully yours,
Anglesey.
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Lady Morgan to Lord Anglesey.
Kildare Street,
Wednesday.

Cæsar is a very dangerous person to engage with, whatever ground he takes! His desperate pas de charge is sure to be borne out by the consciousness of his oldveni, vidi, vici;” and “aut Cæsar, aut nihil!” turns out in the end, to be a very discreet determination; Cæsar must therefore (to borrow his own favourite image), “like the bull in the china shop, have it all his own way.” So much for Cæsar! Now for the Lord-Lieutenant.

Lady Morgan assures His Excellency that Mr. Bate will feel himself overpaid by an acceptance of his sketch of the Pearl, and by an approbation so flattering; to offer any other remuneration would wound rather than gratify the feelings of the venerable artist. Mr. Bate is an eminent enameller, and should His Excellency ever desire to bequeath to posterity one of the “thousand and one” beauties of his own private collection, after the manner of Charles II., or Louis XIV., some little order to eternize eyes that once conquered the conqueror, will faire les délices of one of the best artists in his line, that England has produced. With respect to the couleur de rose passage, in Lord Anglesey’s note! Should it really be the intention of His Excellency to honour the thatched roof of an Irish cabin with his presence, the mistress is ready to receive him with that hearty
Cead mille falthae,
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which he so well deserves from every Irish heart. It is, however, for him to command the evening. His Excellency’s secretary mentioned last night, that every night in the ensuing week was taken, except that of Monday next, the 11th. On that or any other evening, Lady Morgan is sure to be “at home” to so illustrious a guest.

For this year, the only diary of any general interest was kept during her visit to London, and her sojourn at Brussels. It begins abruptly:

June 18.—Arrived in London on Monday 10th, by Liverpool, a prosperous passage of eleven hours. From Liverpool to Leamington, where we rested two days, the country one continued garden; no beggary, no poverty. It struck us that the face of the country was much improved since we last travelled this way. We found invitations waylaying us on our arrival.

June 24.—To-day had a visit from Madame Pasta, more naïve than ever; she told us she was near getting into prison at Naples, for singing out of Tancredi, Cara Patria; and she said orders were given to omit the word “liberta” in all her songs. Her happy temperament shows itself most in her tender affection for her mother and her daughter; she says that nothing, neither fame nor money, consoles her for their absence.

Bellini came in, and Pasta, Bellini, and José went through one act of his Norma. Bellini was charmed with José’s voice.

I had a curious scene yesterday: Bentley and Rees
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(of the long firm,
Longman & Co.), at the same time, one in the back, the other in the front drawing-room. Each came to negotiate about my next book; Bentley is to have it.

Pasta and I were disputing to-day about reputations, I spoke of her Gloire, she said, “Gloire passagère, it is here to-day and gone to-morrow, your’s endures.” I said, “Je voudrais bien troquer mes chances avec la posterité, pour la certitude de vêtre influence avec les contemporains.”

June 28.—To-day, took my girls to Lord Grosvenor’s gallery. At night we went to a literary party at Lady Charleville’s. Campbell, the poet, said to me, “I am copying out my Life of Mrs. Siddons, for which I am to get a price, which, if any bookseller had offered me a few years back, I would have flung in his face, and the MS. into the fire.”

The party at Lady Cork’s had some curious contrasts. There was Lady Charleville herself, the centre of a circle in her great chair. Lady Dacre, author of—everything; plays, poems, novels, &c., &c. Lady Charlotte Campbell, author of Conduct is Fate. Miss Jane Porter (Thaddeus of Warsaw), cold as ever, though the muse of tragedy in appearance. Mrs. Bulwer Lytton, the muse of comedy. Lady Stepney, author of the New Road to Ruin; lots of lay men and women, a crowd of saints and sinners. The men were still more odd. Sir Charles Wetherell, Prince Cimitelli, D’Israeli, who ran off as I skipped in, some other remarkables, and one young man, Lord Oxmantown, an impersonation of a “Committee of the House.”

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July 1.—Pasta and Bellini jumped out of a hackney-coach at our door to-day, with a roll of music in their hands,—it was the score of the Norma, they came, Pasta said, from the second rehearsal. Bellini scolded his great pupil like a petite pensionnaire.

July 6.—Days later. Till this morning I have not had a moment to spare to fill up my journal. What a loss! Pleasure, business, folly, literature, fashion! Pasta often calls on us; this is her own account of herself. “I was a petite demoiselle, playing and singing in the amateur theatre at Milan. Pasta and I played the Prince and Princess di Jovati, fell in love, and married. Paer, who heard us, or one of us, wrote to us to come to Paris, and play in the theatre of Madame Caladoni. I so wished to travel,* que faurais allé même à l’Enfer! mes parens étaient desolés! I went on the stage, and was engaged for London; came out in Télémaque. I was so ashamed at showing my legs! Instead of minding my singing, I was always trying to hide my legs. I failed!”

“Do you,” I asked, “transport yourself into your part?” “Oui, après les premières lignes. Je commence toujours en Giuditta (mon nom) mais je finis toujours en Medea ou Norma!

July 14.—I had a peep at club life,—the Travellers. It is the perfection of domestic life! Every comfort at once suggested and supplied; good reasons for not marrying! Women must get up to this point, or they

* Mr. Sterling, of the Times, told me, that when Pasta was playing Cherubino. fifteen years ago, in London, she could not procure an order for a friend to the pit!

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will only be considered as burthens. Some of the young husbands of the handsomest wives live at their clubs.

Went to see the hydro-oxygen microscope, which has extinguished the solar light. It shows the objects in a drop of water magnified 800,000 times. The wonders of the microscopic world illustrate all the base passions of the whole great system. The animalcules tear each other to pieces, and are agitated by all the worst passions; they are of monstrous and disgusting forms, the water devil, the water lion, with their great heads, and the strange motions of others, are all images of crime and weakness; to illustrate the same state by this exhibition, would be a sermon and a bore; to illustrate the world by the microscope would be an epigram.

July 16.—Amongst the notabilities who have sought us out, are Gabussi and Vaccai, the composers, and Taglioni, la dèesse de la danse, she was brought to us by her husband, who is the son of a peer of France, and ex-page to Bonaparte. She was quiet, lady-like, and simple, her dress elegant, but simple. She told me her father was maître de ballet, and had early instructed her; but she had so little vocation, that when she came to Paris, she had no hope of success. Of her habits of life, she said, she lived temperately, dining on plain roasts, at three o’clock, never sleeping after dinner, nor taking anything till after her exertions at the theatre were over, then, she supped on tea. She practices two or three hours a-day. She said that the moment force was introduced in dancing, grace vanished; her
DRAMATIC SCENES AND SKETCHES—1833.363
rule was never to make an effort, but to give herself up to nature, and the great delight she had in dancing. She said she never was so happy as when dancing. The moment she comes off the stage her ancles are wrapped in woollen socks, and when she goes home her feet are bathed in arrow-root water.

Last Monday we went to the British Institution, a very mixed society, everybody coming to be seen, and nobody to see the pictures.

After the gallery, we went to a select soirée at Lady Cork’s. All dukes, duchesses, lords, ladies, and bores; the dresses were bad. D’Israeli shuffled along with his ivory cane, like the ghost in Hamlet, and the only amusing thing was a little boy from Ireland, who attacked us all at the door.

July 29.—Yesterday we went to the House of Lords to hear the last debate on the Church Temporalities Bill. We sat in the Peeress’s box. The first thing that struck me, was the theatrical set out of the place. The stage below, the gallery above, the dropping in of the actors. To the right from the gallery, in the centre of the lower bench, sat the Dukes of Wellington, Cumberland, Newcastle, and Lord Winchelsea; behind them, Lord Ellenborough, Lord Wicklow, Lord Aberdeen; opposite were Lord Grey, the Duke of Rutland; opposite to us, on the woolsack, sat Lord Brougham, bound up like an Egyptian mummy, his countenance as impassible as Talleyrand’s. When a note was presented to him he drew his hands out of his sleeves, in which they were folded, and used glasses. The debate opened with the Duke of Newcastle, who
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stuttered, stammered, and looked frightened. Lord Winchester followed, who roared and bellowed; he addressed the
Bishop of London, whose manner, in reply, was cold, collected, but quite as mad; no eloquence, wit, energy, or originality. Lord Eldon, an old state-property actor, with a conventional manner; his speech was gag—all referred to himself; he was of the people once—he was still of the people, though now he was a peer of the realm! He had filled the woolsack for twenty years; he respected and admired the Duke, but he was angry with him for emancipating the Catholics; he would soon appear before the throne of Heaven (and he took out his blue pocket-handkerchief and wept through the rest of his speech); he must soon die; but dying, he foresaw the fall of that glorious assembly; if the bill passed, it must be swept away, it could not last, except on the stability of compacts (for compacts are made for man, not man for compacts) &c. &c. The whole speech, that of an old rogue, but a very good actor. “Pity the sorrows of a poor old man.”

In the box with us was the Duchess of Richmond, who never misses a debate. She had been here since five o’clock, and desired her daughter to keep her place when she went home for an hour to meet the Duke of Gloucester; the box holds twenty-five.

The Duke of Wellington’s manner and matter were equally bad. He spoke so low and indistinct, I scarcely heard him. The effect produced by these scenes was, the error of erecting a barrier against progress by giving sanction to an assembly, composed principally of
DRAMATIC SCENES AND SKETCHES—1833.365
old and infirm men. The number of young men is so small as to make every man under fifty conspicuous. Nearly all, as I looked down, seemed bald; many were infirm, and walked with an arm—
Lord Holland was wheeled in; they were all men without fathers—consequently, of a certain age. Lord Ellenborough, and two or three others of his standing, represented the middle-aged.

Monday.—Last night, at Mr. Perry’s, son of the editor of the Morning Chronicle. House after Louis XIV. style; company, Fonblanque, of the Examiner; Kenny, the dramatist, &c., &c. The manner of all the men cold and languid; reserve, shyness, and morgue make up the character and manners of English society.

Mrs. Bulwer Lytton, handsome, insolent, and unamiable, to judge by her style and manners; she, and all the demi-esprits, looked daggers at me; not one of them have called on me, and in society they get out of my way. How differently I should behave to them if they came to Ireland!

July 31.—Last night an agreeable party at the Countess of Montalembert’s. Renewed my acquaintance with the once famous Lady Clare; Lady Dudley Stuart (Lucien Bonaparte’s daughter), in the most extravagant of dresses; but très aimable. That egregious coxcomb, Disraeli, was there, too—outraging the privilege a young man has of being absurd.

August 4.—We have had a cordial visit, from Captain Marryatt—there had been a coldness since we withdrew from the Metropolitan. After dinner, we
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lounged in the Park, and then took a walk, then home to dress for
Lady Cork’s, where we met and chatted with all sorts of old acquaintances, Lady Marybrough, Lady Darlington, Lady Augusta Paulet, Rogers the poet, Lady Davy, Lady Caledon, &c.; the Duchess of Cleveland is a very pleasant woman, full of spirit and spirits. It was curious to see that handsome head encircled with diamonds, which first attracted notice under a basket of onions and salad. She was a garden girl, attending the London markets. What a romance was hers!

Rogers said, that Moore’s book The Gentleman in Search of a Religion, was a failure, and that Moore was much disappointed, though he did not expect a very brilliant success.

Yesterday Bellini and Gabussi came, and sang and played like angels. Lucien Bonaparte came in as they were singing—
“O bella Italia che porte tre color,
Sei bianca e rosa e Verde com ’un fiore!”
Lucien exhibited a supressed emotion that was very touching. How honest and clever he is! He said, what I have often preached, “nations that deserve to be free, are free!” He blamed
Lafayette in the late events of France—elect a Bourbon to the throne—and talk of the voice of the people in this election! The people who forget and who bled, were consulted, but betrayed. We talked of Ireland. I said, “The Irish have no idea of liberty, they want a king of their own. Come and present yourself, and I will promise you a
DRAMATIC SCENES AND SKETCHES—1833.367
crown.” He laughed, but said, “Point de couronne, point de couronne.”

I said “Voilà done encore une couronne que vous refusez!”

It is well known that he did refuse a crown at the hands of his brother. He and his brother Joseph have only just enough to live upon; Lucien is lodging in a little bit of a house in Devonshire Street (No. 50); Joseph has a toute petite campagne, where he lives with his daughter, whom he insists on calling la Princesse Charlotte.

Lady Cork has just written to beg I will name a day to meet the ex-majesties of Spain at dinner! I have been obliged to refuse, as we are off to Belgium this month. What strange things do come to pass in this tragical fever called life!

I am always studying eminent persons. Women above all—eminent no matter for what, De Stael, or Taglioni, e’est égal. Talking with Pasta the other day, I cross-questioned her about her diet. I said, “I remember, one night, being with you in your dressing-room when you had just come off the stage in your highest wrought scene, (the quartetta ‘Come o Nimé,’) your woman had a bit of cold roast beef ready to put into your mouth, and some porter.”

“Ah si,” was her reply, “mais je ne prends plus la viande—et pour le porter, I take it half-and-half.” This bit of London slang, from the lips of Medea, and in her sweet broken English, had the oddest effect imaginable.

Saturday.—Yesterday was a curious day. I went
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with dear
Lady Charleville and Mrs. Marley to see some original pictures of Nell Gwynne, at the Duke of St. Albans. The Duchess received us in a superb morning room; her dress was ridiculously fine for the morning—rich white silk trimmed with white lace; a quantity of gold chains, bracelets, &c. She had black ringlets, surmounted by a black lace veil, which fell over on one side. She is a coarse, full-blown, dark-complexioned woman, about fifty. The last time I saw her, was as Miss Mellon, in the Honey Moon, when I came over to London to sell my Wild Irish Girl. She was then a model of beauty, symmetry, and grace. As I stared at her now, surrounded by ducal coronets, even on her footstools, the pretty poem of Le Tu, et le Vous, of Voltaire, came into my head. She accompanied us to her dressing-room, where she showed us two pictures of Nell Gwynne, not original; the one, a beautiful woman wearing a jewelled carcanet, by Sir P. Lely, a copy of an original in the possession of Mr. Calcraft, the Duchess believed; the other, was a miserable thing in the dressing-room.

The Temple and the Idol, were the most interesting things to me; the magnificence and taste of all the mirrors, gilding, pictures, furniture—the profusion of flowers, and, above all, the attending priestesses, the abigails, all over-dressed and ugly, such as any young Duke might be trusted with. The robust Duchess complained all the time of ill health, and said she would hand us over to her housekeeper after she had shown us over the ground-floor.

In the Duke’s sitting-room, she pointed out a pic-
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ture of herself as
Miss Mellon, in Mrs. Page—“Very beautiful, done,” said she, “for my dear Mr. Coutts, and the Duke will hang it up, you see, as a match for his father, the late Duke, and here is a bust of Mr. Coutts; you will see a statue of him up stairs,” and so we did, at the head of the drawing-room—an awful figure! We were shown by the housekeeper into her Grace’s second dining-room, almost as magnificent as her first. She said her Grace dressed here in the morning and below in the evening, to save her the trouble of going up stairs. I was thinking of the Polly Peachum Duchess of Bolton, and Nell Gwynne, and her descendant marrying another Nell Gwynne. The whole of this day was amusing. I dined at Lord Charleville’s, the company, the old Tory Duchess of Richmond, enjoying the honours founded by Mademoiselle de Querouille (Duchess of Portsmouth), Sir Charles Wetherell, lovely Lady Antrim, young Lord Tullamore and his beautiful wife. After dinner went to a dance with my girls.

August 15, Monday.—Yesterday was curious and interesting; people coming to take leave of us. We had at the same moment, Moore, Madame Pasta, Bellini, Gabussi. And now for writing letters, apologies, &c., and off to-morrow for the Rhine.

Monday night.—The eve of our departure for the Rhine. All packed up and ready for the Tower stairs except my stomach. Oh, the horrible sea, and steam-packet!

Tuesday morning, 6 o’clock.—Half inclined not to go. London, hot rooms, and late hours have nearly killed
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me, and yet there is but one place in the world, and that is—dear London!

Everybody has been up the Rhine; and everything worthy of note about Antwerp, Liege, and Cologne, has been written, and may be read in the guide book; but Brussels, at that time, fresh from its revolutions, has a charm that cannot be repeated. We may, therefore, give a few patches from the diary kept during her sojourn in Brussels after they had finished their tour.

September 7th.—After our charming tour through Belgium, here we are settled for some little time. We had scarcely arrived when the French ambassador and his lovely young wife (the La Tour Maubourgs) and her charming sister and brother-in-law, Count and Countess D’Oraison came in what they called conspiration, to lay violent hands and detain us here, and we, nothing loath, have consented,—my two girls in the third heaven!

Received visits from Monsieur and Madame Engler. The Frekes, Seymours, Dr. Bowring and Count Hompèche. The latter dined at the table d’hôte with us, and sat beside me, and had we not fun! An English family at the table d’hôte impayable. Mr. J—— turned up his nose at the French wines, “sour stuff, monsieurs,” and called for brandy and water. “I’ll lay you a cheney tea pot,” said he, “they have no melted butter for the salmon.”

Thursday—Dined yesterday at the Engler’s, a mag-
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nificent dinner, and music in the evening, met and chatted a good deal with the Minister of the Interior, Monsieur Rogier, sensible, modest, and high-minded. He is to come and see us to-morrow.

Thursday 15.—What a leée to-day of all nations!

Foreigners complain here that there is no society, each menage suffices to itself, and when amusement is to be sought, it is bought ready made. The lower orders fly to their cabarets in the environs, the middle class have their cafés and estaminets, and the highest rank go to their box at the opera; and this with the diversity of a ball in the season and the court ceremonies makes up the whole of their social existence, (very like our own), but there is no house open to receive either morning or evening visits, as there are in Paris. There is no intellectual society as in England; there is no material for it. The women are sedentary and silent, domestic and devote, and resemble the mass of our female English society, but without their habits of intellectual cultivation, which brings ease, grace, and courtesy along with it.

September 17.—We shall have to leave this hotel, as it is all taken for the great fêtes.

September 18.—Hardly got into our pretty apartments in the Rue de la Regence (with our books, flowers, piano, drawings, &c., &c), when enter Lady Clare, and Lady Isabella Fitzgibbons, and Sir Robert Adair. What a pleasant chat of times and people, past and present! How they recall the bright days of the Priory to me!

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September 18.—We dined yesterday at the Palace; great simplicity, with just as much splendour as any nobleman of good taste and wealth might indulge in, but nothing more. The Queen—young, fair, simple, and more than courteous—reminds me of our English girls of rank: a little shy and very graceful, but nothing of the morgue of our belles of quality. I looked about me for a ribbon. I spied a gentleman in black, with the broadest blue scarf from shoulder to flank. I thought he represented some ancient order of chivalry, pas du tout. It was an English knight of the Guelphic Order. The Grand Marechal, a very agreeable Count, asked me what Order that was. I could not help saying, L’ordre de tout bête. Strange to say, here was a royal company of forty persons; there was not one Prince amongst them. There was all the intellect and manhood of the present administration. The Belgian Lafayette, Baron De Hoogoorst, the brave, the patriotic commander of the National Guard; there was Charles Rogier, the Minister of the Interior, who, in the most awful moment of political fermentation at the time of the revolution, flung himself into the very gap of anarchy, and established that character of dauntless devotedness to a great cause which may be deemed the chivalry of politics; Monsieur Le Beau, Ministre de Justice, the prose, as Rogier is the poetry of the revolution; Monsieur Northomel, Secretary-General des Affaires Etrangers, with countenance full of intellectual fire, pensante et instruit; not one dandy or dunce amongst them. Could one say as much for a diplomatic table of London? In short, I was better
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pleased with this royal dinner than with anything royal I have ever yet assisted at. “Il faut avoué que votre Roi est le plus grand Roi du monde,” said I to my neighbour; “S’il n’est pas, il le doit être,” said he.

September 20.—What an odd coincidence. We had last night nearly the whole of the last Provisional Government of the Belgian Revolution, with the addition of Colonel Prozinski, Mr. White, author of The King’s Own, the two De Brouckers, Henri et Charles, Quételet, the Royal Astronomer, Jullien, the Orator of the Opposition, Sir Robert Adair, our Ambassador, and the dear, charming, La Tour Maubourgs. The evening was amusing. I had also Van Hallan, the accomplished author of an historical tract of the Trouble Belgique in 1718; he is the type of the character and national feelings of the Belgian youth, and one among the many illustrations of the beneficial change in the character of a people effected by the removal of oppressive and anti-national institutions.

September 26.—A week of carnival festivities. The Concert d’Harmonie a la Place Royal, by six hundred musicians, consisting of the corps of the army, with an audience of nearly ten thousand persons in front of the beautiful Hotel de Ville,—really one of the most imposing sights I have ever seen. In front was inclosed a space for the Ministers, the Deputies, and the Senate. The windows and balconies belonging to the houses and hotels all round filled with elegantly-dressed women. To the right, in a balcony window, sat the King and Queen and officers of state. The royal party were received by the music of the “Mar-
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seillaise,” mingled with the “Brabançon.” There was no loud enthusiasm, for these people now repose upon their past emotions, and their recollection of their past hard-won liberties is now enjoyed by them in sober satisfaction, and the full consciousness of their happiness suffices them. The beautiful music elicited more applause than any other occurrence of the day. Alas! the rain fell in torrents before it was over, and Bruxelles presented a canopy of umbrellas which had the most extraordinary effect.

September 28.—The races went on yesterday in spite of the rain; rather a laughable business, men and horses stuck in the mud, and one poor horse broke his back, and the jockey, I fear, much hurt. These are happy times when events are greater than the men that are placed at their head. It is something to represent the first state that has thrown off its slavery. The immense masses of opinion now afloat upon the surface of the political society of Belgium forced into collusion by the ferment and kicking against each other. It requires a cool head and a firm hand to wield the sceptre, and Leopold seems to have both, and has a fine career before him. On the king’s visit to Verviers, he said to the bourgmestre, “Qu’il protegerait toujours l’industrie.” “Sire,” replied the burgomaster, “il n’y en est pas besoin ça va bien comme ça.” The king laughed much at the naïveté of this good fellow,” and this is the essence of all the philosophy of commerce—laissez nous faire.

October.—Just returned to London, and St. James’ Street, after the most delightful tour up the Rhine
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that ever was made. A day or two for seeing friends, and a few visits, and then—off for wretched Dublin!

Lady Morgan, who had been very kind to Madame Belzoni, as to all classes of foreigners, received from her at this time a curious present.

Madame Belzoni to Lady Morgan.
September 25th, 1833.
Dear Lady Morgan,

On my arrival at Jerusalem, 1808, the Temple of Solomon was then under repair, and nearly finished. The Turks, whenever they require any work of importance done, send out an order to arrest such Christian workmen as may be required for the undertaking, paying them with the greatest liberality; so much so, that they frequently return to their homes with a little fortune. Living in the same quarter, I naturally went with them. Among those whom I was acquainted with, were an old man and woman, whose son was employed as Scrivener at the temple, a place of some importance. For his particular privilege and emolument, an old door of cedar was given him; this door had been placed on the same site that tradition reputes that our blessed Saviour used to pass through.

The Turks hold in the greatest veneration all places that are sacred to our Saviour, excepting the Sepulchre; considering Christ as a spirit, consequently a spirit could not be crucified, and that it was the body of Judas that had been taken into the Sepulchre, of course they ridi-
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cule the Christians for worshipping there. I am ashamed of this preamble about nothing, but the insignificancy of the article required it. The accompanying cross was made out of that door, and it received the benediction in the holy Sepulchre, under my own sight. Will
Lady Morgan accept my offering of thanks, poor as it is.

S. Belzoni.

PS.—The basket plate was made above the first cataract of the Nile, Nubia. Fruit of the date tree, the inside is dissolved, and made into beads.

The spoon that I bought in grand Cairo, 1837, which the grand Turk’s people eat their rice with.

Forgive, dear Lady Morgan, the insignificant offerings of a human heart. I have often longed to see you—that wish is at last gratified. In 1822, I passed the Simplon, two days after you had passed, and was much mortified at having missed seeing one who had charmed me so often.

Again, we return to the diary:—

December 24.—We returned to Ireland the middle of October, after our most delightful, gratifying, and interesting visit to the Continent, but I had not the heart to resume the thread of my chronicles till this day, and now only because the year is winding up, and I am going away for a time. During my charming June and July in London, I kept a very rough outline of what I was about, and whom I saw (and
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whom I did not see who was worth seeing)! My principal impressions are in my head, for I had no intention of ever writing a journey again till I was urged to do it by all parties and classes in Brussels. On my return to this dreary city, my house full of dirty, idle, loitering workmen, I set to work myself, hurried them through theirs, and got ill, and went to recover with my dear friends at Malahide, whose castle is always open to us. On my return, settled in to write, in spite of some pleasant intentions. We have dined with the Littletons;
Mr. Littleton, his lovely wife and daughters. He is in politics honest, frank, and straightforward, but new. I have had various and curious conversations with him, I wish I had written them down.

Contrary to our intentions, we accepted an invitation from Sir Thomas and Lady Chapman, for the sake of my dear girls, who were included. A most joyous and agreeable fortnight. Think of their being afraid of asking me to their superb castle, lest I should be ennuyée with their society, and doing the honours by me as if I were a little queen! Talking with Lady Chapman the other day, on the radical liberalism of her three sons and two nephews (the Tighes), I said, laughingly, “With a Tory father, a Tory uncle, an aristocratic mother, how comes it that all your young men, bred up in absolution, should be such liberals! who converted them?” She smiled, and said, “Why, then, to tell the truth, it was your Ladyship.” “I? Why, I have talked so little to them since they grew up.” “You have talked enough, and written more than enough to make them what they are!” It is
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thus we women, the secret tribunal of society, can mine and countermine.

We returned to town on Saturday, 21st, and dined with Mr. Wallace, my old lover, M.P. for Carlow. I sat at dinner between the Provost and the Secretary of State, Mr. Littleton. I attacked the Provost’s college wall on one side (as we are struggling to have it down to open narrow Nassau Street), and other walls on the other side. I took the opportunity of bringing forward the honest and the clever, who never make their way; I always do this when I get beside the great and influential. I spoke of Dr. Macarthy, the honest and philosophical, and I put a spoke in the wheel of the College of Surgeons, the jobbing, exclusive, monopolising College of Surgeons. When we got upon O’Connell, I said, “Listen to a foolish woman’s prophecy. O’Connell is veering towards you, because, just now he is losing hold on the people, and the rent for the time has failed. If you meet him a step he will entangle you, perhaps betray you; at all events, he will make a merit of it in the eyes of his dupes.”

Mr. Littleton. “But do you not think he will be worth having?”

“Yes; if you can catch him and keep him, but he has an Irish physical talent none of you can cope with, subtlety. The eel is a lump of lead compared with O’Connell, he has no one fixed principle; the end, with him, consecrates the means, and that end is—O’Connell, the beginning and end of all things.” Mr. Littleton was silent, and then asked me if I were pleased with the batch of commissionerships he had given away.
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I said “yes, if they are to get nothing.” He said, “Nothing but the honour; they are all rich men.”

Christmas Eve.—Eating, drinking, flirting, and reading. I must register an odd thought. The Irish destiny is between Bedlam and a jail; but I won’t pursue it. So ends my journal of 1833. How much I have felt, suffered, enjoyed, seen, and heard in that year!!

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