Lady Morgan’s Memoirs
Lady Morgan to Lady Talbot of Malahide, 30 September 1841
Baden,
September 30, 1841.
My dear Lady Talbot,
In the course of our delightful and prosperous tour in
this region of plenty and bonhomie I
have often thought of writing to you; but, strange to say, having come to the
very heart of Germany, as a retreat from bustle of all
sorts, I have been living in a continual fuss and movement, and, except to my
family, to tell them I am “alive and kicking,” I have never put pen
to paper since I left London. I requested Lady
Clarke to send you a fragment of my scrawl as a remembrance. I
have derived infinite benefit from the waters of Kissingen, and I was delighted
with the society I found there, and gratified up to my
bent, by the manner of our reception everywhere. The kindness of the
Esterhazys and several other distinguished
464 | LADY MORGAN'S MEMOIR. | |
Austrians, was extreme; and that we are not now on our
way to Vienna and divers chateaux in Germany and Hungary, is not from the want
of invitations. We fell in with many friends of Madame la Chanoinesse Talbot, and heard many
characteristic anecdotes of her, that I shall reserve for our next meeting.
Amongst others, the beautiful Countess Assemay,
Count Malgan (the Russian ambassador), the family of
the Von Walthers, charmers, and who spoke of the
Chanoinesse with great kindness; but all seem surprised how anyone
distinguished with the illustrious name of Talbot should
accept of a German title! for, in Germany, ancient descent, not title, is the
illustration most prized. I suppose Josephine has told you how courteous the amiable
Queen of Wurtumberg was to us, and what a pretty royal
rural fête we assisted at. In
short, we left pretty, salutary Kissingen with infinite regret. We made our
journey here by a long detour, in an open carriage. We stopped at Wurzberg and
Heidelberg for a couple of days; and the palace of the first, and the ruined
castle of the second, are well worth the fatigue of the whole journey; and oh,
such a land of abundance as we passed through! There is nothing I ever saw
comparable to the Valley of the Necker, and the scenery from Heidelberg to
Baden. I shall never forgive myself for having lived so long without having
visited this paradise. I cannot tell you how it seized on my
imagination—such a combination of all that is civilised and romantic,
enjoyable and sublime. The Grand Duchess has rendered it delightful to us in a
social point of view, by the distinction of her at-tentions. The day after our arrival she sent (through the Baden minister) to
invite us to go to her in the morning, so we went to the vieux chateaux, and were presented by
la grande maitresse, who left
us to the enjoyment of a most agreeable and intellectual conversation, with one
of the most spirituelle and gracious
persons imaginable. The next evening we were invited to her concert, and
presented to the Prince and Princess Vasa. The
Countess Merlin sang, and still charmingly.
Last night we were at the most original entertainment
ever given since the days of Charlemagne!
by the Princessa Vasa, for it was amongst the ruins of the
old castle (Alte Schloss) at the top of that steep rugged
mountain, which I need not describe to you. I got very nervous about going, as
the descent at night was no joke! We assembled at five in the centre of the
ruins, all in grand toilette—the men all chapeau bas! The grand spectacle was the sun
setting—and the moon rising over such scenes! Here there was a
collation—three tables. I was summoned to her Royal Highness, where,
by-the-bye, Lord Douglas and myself were the only British.
As the night advanced, the rest of the ruins were suddenly illuminated, as if
by magic, and we ascended to a Gothic chamber, superbly furnished en rococo,
where there was a concert, and a ball terminated the whole. The old dungeons
rang with the echoes of the most delightful bands of music all night. To-night
is the Grand Duke’s fête,
to which we are invited. And now I think I have tired you out, and shall beg of
466 | LADY MORGAN'S MEMOIR. | |
you to give my people a peep of this letter, which
will save me going over this ground to them. So God bless you.
With kind respects to Lord
Talbot,
Yours,
Emperor Charlemagne (742-814)
King of the Franks and Emperor of the West who built his palace school at Aachen.
Lady Olivia Clarke [née Owenson] (1785 c.-1845)
The younger sister of Lady Morgan who married Dublin physician Sir Arthur Clarke
(1778-1857) in 1808. She wrote songs and a play, and published in the
Metropolitan Magazine and
Athenaeum.
Josephine Geale [née Clarke] (1886 fl.)
The daughter of Sir Arthur Clarke of Dublin; she was a notable Dublin singer and niece of
Lady Morgan.