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Lady Morgan’s Memoirs
Chapter IV
INTRODUCTION & INDEXES
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Preface
Vol. I Contents.
Prefatory Address
Chapter I
Chapter II
Chapter III
Chapter IV
Chapter V
Chapter VI
Chapter VII
Chapter VIII
Chapter IX
Chapter X
Chapter XI
Chapter XII
Chapter XIII
Chapter XIV
Chapter XV
Chapter XVI
Chapter XVII
Chapter XVIII
Chapter XIX
Chapter XX
Chapter XXI
Chapter XXII
Chapter XXIII
Chapter XXIV
Chapter XXV
Chapter XXVI
Chapter XXVII
Chapter XXVIII
Chapter XXIX
Chapter XXX
Chapter XXXI
Chapter XXXII
Chapter XXXIII
Chapter XXXIV
Chapter XXXV
Chapter XXXVI
Chapter XXXVII
Chapter XXXVIII
Vol. I Index
Vol. II Contents
Chapter I
Chapter II
Chapter III
Chapter IV
Chapter V
‣ Chapter IV
Chapter VII
Chapter VIII
Chapter IX
Chapter X
Chapter XI
Chapter XII
Chapter XIII
Chapter XIV
Chapter XV
Chapter XVI
Chapter XVII
Chapter XVIII
Chapter XIX
Chapter XX
Chapter XXI
Chapter XXII
Chapter XXIII
Chapter XXIV
Chapter XXV
Chapter XXVI
Chapter XXVII
Chapter XXVIII
Chapter XXIX
Chapter XXX
Chapter XXXI
Chapter XXXII
Chapter XXXIII
Chapter XXXIV
Chapter XXXV
Chapter XXXVI
Chapter XXXVII
Chapter XXXVIII
Chapter XXXIX
Chapter XL
Vol. II Index
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CHAPTER VI.
OUT OF ENGLAND INTO FRANCE—1818.

Lady Morgan was still engaged in completing Florence Macarthy, when Colburn went to press with it early in March, though it was not more than half finished. He had his own reasons for pressing forwards the publication. He had an idea. This idea was to follow up the success he had had with the work on France, by producing another of a similar class upon Italy.

In March, 1818, Colburn wrote to Sir Charles and Lady Morgan, proposing they should pay a visit to Italy that year, and write a work upon that country, similar in scope and design to the one that had been so successful on France; Lady Morgan to write the observations and sketches on men, manners, and the things worthy of note; Sir Charles contributing the chapters on the state of the laws, the influence of politics, and the condition of science and education. He offered them two thousand pounds for the copyright. They closed with the offer, and he wrote to thank them, declaring that their frank acceptance of his offer had put him in fresh spirits. He urged them
OUT OF ENGLAND INTO FRANCE—1818.79
to come to London immediately, to make their final arrangements. Sir Charles and Lady Morgan left Dublin rather earlier this year, bringing
Florence Macarthy to be finished amid the brilliant bustle and distraction of a London season.

On their way to London Sir Charles and Lady Morgan remained one night at Holyhead, the spot she had so often visited when going to her old friend, Lady Stanley. The dear friend was dead, and here is Lady Morgan’s record of her visit to the empty shrine.


“This is the first time I arrived at Holyhead without the hope of seeing dear Lady Stanley standing at her own gate, with Sir John on one side and Susanne on the other with her shawls and dog. The gates were now closed, and all looked gloomy and desolate.”


Colburn had engaged rooms for them in Conduit Street, and they were soon surrounded by all the gaiety of London. Colburn was in high good humour, and so enchanted with Florence Macarthy, in reading the proofs, that in the enthusiasm of the moment he rushed out and bought a beautiful parure of amethysts, which he presented to Lady Morgan, as a tribute of admiration, and perhaps, with a little hope of keeping her in good humour. The whole of their stay in London and Paris, en route to Italy, has been minutely chronicled in the Odd Volume,* and there is no further need to allude to it. It was a pleasant season of visits and

* Published by Bentley, 1858.

80 LADY MORGAN'S MEMOIR.  
friends, old and new; but Lady Morgan wrote to her sister—

“You are not to suppose we spend all our time in idleness, for we study hard in our different departments. I give an hour to Italian every morning, and have began a course of history, ancient and modern, to rub up my memory before touching classic ground.”


Italy was not then the accessible holiday tour it has since become. There was enough of difficulty and adventure to give the journey a dash of the heroic to Lady Morgan’s imagination, which loved to set all things in theatrical array.

Whilst in London she received the following letter from Madame Jerome Bonaparte. Madame Bonaparte had returned to America, where she must have found her position more irksome than in Paris, if her wrongs had not been too great to leave room for petty vexations.

Madame Jerome Bonaparte to Lady Morgan.
May 23, 1818.
My dear Lady Morgan,

I have not received a line from you since my arrival in America, which I regret more than I can express to you. I wrote you a very long letter describing the effect your work on France produced on its transatlantic readers. The demand was so great, that it went through three editions with us. I assure you that your reputation here is as familiar and as great as in Europe, where you are so justly admired. I wish
OUT OF ENGLAND INTO FRANCE—1818.81
I could see and listen to you once more; but this, like all my desires, must be disappointed, and I am condemned to vegetate for ever in a country where I am not happy. My son is very intelligent, and very good, and very handsome—all these advantages add to the regret I experience at the destiny which compels me to lose life in this region of ennui. You have a great deal of imagination, but it can give you no idea of the mode of existence inflicted on us. The men are all merchants; and commerce, although it may fill the purse, clogs the brain; beyond their counting houses they possess not a single idea—they never visit except when they wish to marry. The women are all occupied in les détails du ménage, and nursing children—these are useful occupations, but do not render people agreeable to their neighbours. I am condemned to solitude, which I find less insupportable than the dull réunions which I might sometimes frequent in this city. The men being all bent on marriage do not attend to me because they fancy I am not inclined to change the evils of my condition for those they could find me in another. Sometimes, indeed, I have been thought so ennuyée as to be induced to accept very respectable offers; but I prefer remaining as I am to the horror of marrying a person I am indifferent to. You are very happy, in every respect, too much so, to conceive what I suffer here.

I have letters from Paris which say De Caze, the Minister of Police, is created a peer, and is to marry one of the Princesses de Beauveau, whom you know.

Qu’en pensez-vous? It appears very strange to my
82 LADY MORGAN'S MEMOIR.  
recollections of the state of political feeling of the parties, but nothing is too surprising to believe of politicians. He is very handsome, at least, which is not a bad thing in a husband; they say, too, that he has talents, and great sensibility—of the last two I cannot judge, as I saw him only en passant.

Paris offers too many agréments, too many agreeable recollections—among the latter you are my greatest—and I think with pain that I shall perhaps never see you again.

Mais cela n’empêche pas que je vous prie de lui dire—that I recollect him with pleasure and regret, and that I beg to be remembered to him. I suppose you will return to Paris, where I hope you will be happy and pleased; it is very easy to be pleased and happy in your situation, because every one is pleased with you, and you are loved whenever you choose to be so. The French admire you so much, that you ought to live with them. Suppose you were to come to this country; it is becoming the fashion to travel here and to know something of us, and I assure you that if you would spend some time here you might find materials for an interesting work—de toutes les manières, you would make any country interesting that you wrote about. I wish I could return to Europe; but it is impossible—a single woman is exposed to so many disagreeable comments in a foreign country; her life, too, is so solitary except when in public, which is not half the day, that it is more prudent for me to remain here; besides, I have at present only eleven hundred pounds a-year to spend, which you know make only twenty-
OUT OF ENGLAND INTO FRANCE—1818.83
five thousand francs—not enough to support me out of my own family, where I have nothing to spend in eating, or in carriages, rent, &c. I wish I could send my son to Europe for his education; I should prefer Edinburgh, but I know no one there to whom I could entrust him. I should write you more frequently were there any incidents in this dull place which might interest you, or any anecdotes that could amuse—there are, alas, none. I embroider and read, pour me débarrasser de mon temps—they are the only distractions left me. Do you remember the description
Madame de Stael gives of the mode of life Corinna found in a country town in England, and the subjects of conversation at Lady Edgermon’s table, which were limited to births, marriages, and deaths? I am so tired of hearing these three important events discussed, and my opinion of them has been so long decided, that it is a misery to be born and to be married, I have painfully experienced, without lessening my dread of death—so you may imagine how little relish I have for the conversation on these tristes topics, and how gladly I seek refuge from listening to it by retiring to my own apartment.

Adieu, my dear Lady Morganil ne faut pas que je vous vous ennuye davantage. Make my best love acceptable to Sir Charles, and ask him to think sometimes of me. Write to me, I entreat you. J’ai plus que jamais besoin de vos lettres pour me consoler de tout ce que j’ai perdu en vous quittant pour revenir dans mon triste pays. Have you a good college in Dublin? I might send my son there in two years, perhaps, as I cannot
84 LADY MORGAN'S MEMOIR.  
send him to France, and do not wish him educated in England, where his name would not recommend him to much favour.

I remain, most affectionately yours,
Eliza Patterson.

A letter from Lady Morgan to her sister, written on their route to Paris, is a curious picture of what travelling was in comparatively modern times. We seem to be divided by a great gulf from those days,—as wide as that which separates us from the feudal times.

Lady Morgan to Lady Clarke.
Calais,
August 27, 1818.

Here we are, my dear love, after a tremendous expense at the hotel at Dover, where we slept last night, and embarked at twelve o’clock this morning, in a stormy sea. The captain remained behind to try and get more passengers, and the result was, that we remained tossing in the bay near two hours, almost to the extinction of our existence. In my life I never suffered so much. As to Morgan, he was a dead man. The whole voyage we were equally bad; and the ship could not be got into port,—so we were flung, more dead than alive, into a wretched sail boat, and how we got on shore I do not know. It rained in torrents all the time; but the moment I touched French ground, and breathed French air, I got well. We came to our old
OUT OF ENGLAND INTO FRANCE—1818.85
auberge, MM. Maurices, and the first place we got to was the kitchen fire, for we were wet and cold;—and really, in that kitchen I saw more beauty than at many of our London parties. Madame Maurice and her daughter, are both handsome women. We were obliged to have bedrooms opposite to the auberge, as it was quite full, but the house, Madame told us, belongs to “maman.” She is herself about fifty, so you may guess what “maman” is. She is admirable—a powdered head, three feet high, and souflet gauze winker cap. Our chamber-maid is worth anything. She is not one of the kitchen beauties, par exemple; but here she is—an ugly woman of seventy, in her chemise, with the simple addition of a red corset and a petticoat, several gold chains, and an immense cross of shiny stones on her neck, with long gold earrings, and with such a cap as I wore at a masquerade. With all this, her name is Melanie; and Melanie has beauty airs as well as beauty name. Whilst she was lighting our wood fire (for it is severely cold) I asked her some questions about the Mr. Maurice. You may guess what a personage he is, for she said—“Ah pour notre Mr. Maurice on ne parle que de lui—partout Madame on ne s’occupe que de notre Mr. Maurice.” So much for Miss Melanie and her Mr. Grundy. We dined at the table d’hôte. We had an Englishman and his wife, and a Frenchman only, for our company. The Englishman was delightful. We had a capital table, with everything good, and in profusion; but the Englishman sat scowling, and called for all sorts of English sauces, said the fish was infamous, and found fault
86 LADY MORGAN'S MEMOIR.  
with everything, and said to the waiter—“What do you mean by your confounded sour mustard?” The poor waiter to all his remarks only answered in English, “How is dat, sar?” The Burgundy was “such d——d stuff.” And the last remark, “Why, your confounded room has not been papered these twenty years,” was too much for our good breeding; and we and the Frenchman laughed outright. Is it not funny to see our countrymen leave their own country for the sole pleasure of being dissatisfied with everything?

We leave this early to-morrow, and shall be in Paris the next day, please God. Lafayette is to come up for us to take us to his chateau; until, therefore, I learn the post town of La Grange, direct to the Hotel d’Orleans, where we shall go on our arrival in Paris. I feel myself so gay here already, that I am sure my elements are all French. A thousand loves, and French and Irish kisses to the darlings.

S. M.

The travellers passed through Paris and Geneva into Italy. In Florence, they met Tom Moore, then troubled with his leg. In Lady Morgan’s papers is a little note which may be given for the sake of the story that follows.

Sunday night, October.
My dear Morgan,

This leg of mine seems inclined to turn out rather a serious concern, and the sooner I avail myself of
OUT OF ENGLAND INTO FRANCE—1818.87
your skill, the better. Can you make it convenient to call upon me soon after breakfast to-morrow morning?

Yours very faithfully,
Thomas Moore.

This “leg” had been an ill of long standing. Moore refers to it in several of his letters to his mother in the previous year.

Lady Morgan used to tell, in a very droll manner, a story about a visit that Sir Charles paid to Moore whilst he was laid up with the leg of which he complains in the preceding note. Moore was a good Catholic, or at least very orthodox in his opinions; Sir Charles was neither. On this occasion, after examining and prescribing for the leg, he sat down on the bedside and entered into a physiological and metaphysical discussion. Moore, for a time, sustained his part, until he became somewhat hardly pressed, when he exclaimed—

“Oh, Morgan, talk no more,—consider my immortal soul!”

“Damn your soul!” said Sir Charles, impatiently—“attend to my argument.”

Argument was not the strong point in Moore.

Moore mentions this conversation; but does not make a story of it.

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