A Narrative of Lord Byron’s Last Journey to Greece
Chapter IV
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CHAPTER IV.
Lord Byron’s visit to
Anatolico—His reception there—Return to Missolonghi—Arrival of
Mr. Parry, with the stores of the London Greek
committee—Interview and arrangement with the Suliote chieftains—News from the
Morea—Letter from Lord Byron to Lord Sidney
Osborne—Proceedings at the Seraglio—News from Patras, and
communication with Lepanto—Proceedings with the Suliotes—Intrigues of the
Moreote chiefs—difficulties with the Suliotes—Lord Byron
attacked by a convulsive fit—Alarm at the Seraglio—Lord
Byron releases twenty-four Turkish prisoners—Destruction of a Turkish
brig—Captain Sasse killed by a Suliote—Disturbance
with the Suliotes—The primates visit Lord Byron—Proposal
from Ulysses to Lord Byron—The artillery
brigade.
February 1.—At 10 o’clock in the morning, we set out for
Anatolico, in one of the flat-bottomed boats with which they navigate the shallows: we
arrived there in
three hours. It is an island in the midst of
marshes, but the water is deeper than round Missolonghi: some low hills, covered with olive
trees, bound the eastern shore of the bay, and the high mountains of Roumelia approach it
to the north. The day was clear, the air temperate, and the view on one side at least very
picturesque. Half a mile distant from the town we saw the plain, where two months ago were
encamped the Pacha of Scutari, and Omer Vrioni, with
an army which amounted in the whole to twenty-four thousand, the greater part of them
cavalry. Observing as we did the wretched little town which, with two or three ill-served
cannons, and a garrison of a few hundred half-armed citizens, had defied such a powerful
host, we formed no very formidable idea of the Ottoman power. The whole mischief inflicted
by the shells and shot of the besiegers amounted only to the destruction of a few | LAST JOURNEY TO GREECE | 153 |
cabins and old houses. We were shown one house, the highest perhaps
in the whole town, at which the Turks had fired at least two hundred times, without
striking it once.
As we approached the shore, an immense crowd of armed men, who were
collected at our place of disembarkation, saluted us with salvos of musketry and discharges
of artillery. As usual, the balls whistled at no great distance above our heads, and a
cannon shot passed within three yards of our boat-head. We landed at one of the principal
houses of the town, where we found the Archbishop Porfiri and all the
primates in readiness to receive us. It was a day of ceremony, appointed for the
inauguration of the city prefect, one Suzzo, of Constantinople, a
courteous and well-informed young man. After many speeches very complimentary but very
sincere on both sides, they set before us an
excellent dinner of fine
fish, an English plum-pudding, and good champaign.
My Lord was afterwards conducted to the church of St. Michael, and had
pointed out to him what the Greeks of Anatolico consider a miracle. At the beginning of the
siege, a shell from a mortar fell on this church, killed the mother of the curate, and,
burying itself in the floor, opened a spring of water, which, as it happened, was of the
greatest service to the besieged, who before that time were obliged to repair to a well
near the shore, with no little difficulty and danger. During the whole of our walk to the
church, we were accompanied by a multitude, who anxiously testified their delight by shouts
and wild music, and the usual discharge of musketry. We particularly remarked that the
women (which, in the East, is the most decisive sign of congratulation) stood at
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their balconies, clothed in their most magnificent dresses, and
saluted my Lord as he passed. We were struck by the good looks and healthy appearance of
the inhabitants, which we hardly expected in a town in the midst of marshes. Lord Byron resolved to return to Missolonghi, although the
primates and Mavrocordato used their best endeavours
to induce him to remain until the next day. The Prince did stay, but my Lord went back, and
during two hours of our journey we were annoyed by very heavy rains.
February 2, 3, 4, 5.—Several boats arrived with various articles
belonging to the laboratory, from Dragomestre. At last, the Suliotes evacuated the Seraglio
prepared to receive these utensils. On the morning of the 4th of February, however, which
happened to be a holiday (of which there are more in Greece than there are working days), a
great portion of the chests was
still lying on the beach, exposed to
a violent rain, and we could not procure any porters to convey them to a place of shelter.
Byron lost all patience, and running himself down to
the beach, he began to work with his own hands; so that what with his reproofs and his
example, he contrived at last to overcome the indolence and the superstition of the people,
and got the goods under cover.
At noon on the 5th, Mavrocordato came
back from Anatolico; and at four o’clock of the same day, Mr. Parry arrived with the remainder of the stores, and the individuals who
accompanied him. There were eight mechanics, four officers (volunteers), of whom two were
English, one German, and one Swede, besides several Greeks.
February 6, 7, 8.—Mr. Parry was
employed in the disposing of his stores in the Seraglio. A meeting was held, at which
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Colonel Stanhope presided, to take account of the
articles brought by Parry, and also to determine upon those which
might be of service upon our expedition. It turned out that there were no Congreve rockets,
and that it would require two months, and no small expense, to prepare any; so that all our
hopes, and the expectations of the Greeks, who had thought wonders would be produced by
these fireworks, vanished at once. The Greek fleet, too, was gone: in short, our only
remaining dependence was from a siege and a capitulation. Notwithstanding this
disappointment, Lord Byron resolved not to abandon the
enterprise. We were busy in appointing a sort of staff amongst the European officers, of
whom now there was a considerable number. Ten Germans, who had served two years in Greece,
and who now had no other duty, offered to accompany Byron as a body guard: they were
accepted.
February 8.—The Suliote chieftains, Bozzari, Giavella, Draco, and the others, had a meeting at Lord Byron’s with Mavrocordato. They all consented to serve under his “most
illustrious Excellency;” they still cherished the same jealousies as to one
another. I was appointed, together with a commissary of the government, to look over the
list, and to separate the true from the pretended Suliotes. We determined that the corps
should consist of six hundred, under Bozzari and
Giavella; that the real Suliotes should have the preference; but
that if there were any wanting to fill up the number, those from the neighbourhood, who had
been their companions in arms, should be selected for that purpose. We resolved to march in
a few days.
We had good news from the Morea. The legislative body had published a
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manifesto, in which they declared their reasons for degrading the
former executive council, who, they proved, had infringed ten principal articles of the
Hellenic constitution. Those composing that body appeared more embarrassed every day; but
fear was nevertheless entertained that they were approaching Napoli di Romania, in order to
occupy that place.
February 9.—Colonel Stanhope now
prepared himself for going into the Morea, in order to co-operate in the great work of
appeasing the discords of that country. He was to give Lord
Byron every information from time to time, whilst we were to be employed in
the blockade of Lepanto.
Prince Mavrocordato wrote privately to Sir Thomas Maitland, to deprecate any bad consequences
from the infraction of the
neutrality of the Ionian territory at
Ithaca; and Lord Byron enclosed this letter in the
following, which he addressed to Lord Sidney
Osborne:
“Missolonghi, February 9, 1824.
“Enclosed is a private communication from Prince Mavrocordato to Sir Thomas Maitland, which you will oblige me
much by delivering. Sir Thomas can take as much or as
little of it as he pleases; but I hope and believe that it is rather calculated
to conciliate than to irritate on the subject of the late event near Ithaca and
Sta Mauro; which there is every disposition on the part of the government here
to disavow; and they are also disposed to give every satisfaction in their
power. You must all be persuaded how difficult it is, under existing
circumstances, for the Greeks to keep up discipline, however they may be all
disposed to do so. I am doing all I can to convince them of the necessity of
the strictest observance of the regulations of the islands, and, I trust, with
some effect. I was received here with every possible public and private mark of
respect. If you write to any of our friends, you can say that I am in good
health and spirits; and that I shall stick by the cause
as long as a man of honour can, without sparing purse, and (I hope, if need be)
person.”
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We were much occupied at the Seraglio with disposing of the articles
belonging to the laboratory in such a manner as to render them serviceable for the
artillery brigade. Nothing could be more striking than the sudden change of appearance in
the building itself: whilst in the hands of the Suliotes, it bore every mark of indolence
and neglect; but no sooner were the English artificers introduced than life and energy were
communicated, as it were, to the very walls themselves; and we could scarcely recognise the
barracks when appropriated to their new inmates.
February 10.—We took this opportunity of handing over the medicines,
sent by the Quakers, to Dr. Millingen, in order to
provide for the troops, and to form a dispensary for those in want of medical assistance.
Mr. Parry, as director of the laboratory, was to
be appointed commander
of the artillery brigade; but Mr. Kinderman, a Prussian officer, thinking it beneath him
to serve under a fire-master (such was Parry’s original rank),
waited on Lord Byron to give up his commission.
Lord Byron did all he could to dissuade him; and he joked him not
a little on the quarterings of his German escutcheon, and on the folly of introducing his
prejudices into a country like Greece. “As for myself,” said
Byron, “I should be perfectly ready to serve as a common
soldier, under any body, if it be thought of any good to the
cause.” Mr. Kinderman, however, was not to be
persuaded, and withdrew from us; but all the other Germans remained. We added to the number
of our brigade, and had before us the prospect of being, in a very short time, capable of
manœuvring at least the cannon which were sent out with the laboratory.
Byron paid a visit to the new establishment, and to the exercising
ground; | LAST JOURNEY TO GREECE | 163 |
and was much occupied, this day, in conferences with
Mavrocordato.
February 11.—We heard the news of the death of Sir Thomas Maitland. The Frankfort
Gazette asserted that there were public rejoicings on the occasion at
Missolonghi. That calumny has been already contradicted. Two Greeks, escaped from Patras,
brought us intelligence that the quarrels there were continual, and that much blood had
been shed in affrays between the European and Asiatic Turks. Yussuff Pacha himself had been obliged to interfere in person, and had with
great difficulty appeased the combatants. From Lepanto we heard that the Albanians had made
themselves masters of the castle; had pointed the cannon against the town, and had demanded
the arrears of their pay. It was reported, that they would surrender to Lord Byron the moment he appeared
with
the Greek forces under the walls; for, besides their own dissensions, our cause was
forwarded by the exaggerated accounts which prevailed in the Turkish quarters of the extent
of our means.
Lord Byron sent this day a messenger to Zante for
another supply of money, which might be necessary in our intended expedition; for we now
learnt that one of our spies had contrived to have a conference with one of the Albanian
chieftains in Lepanto; and that this person had assured him that the troops would surrender
to Lord Byron, provided they could be secure of their lives and of
their arrears of pay.
In consequence of this intelligence, we took every step that our
circumstances would admit of. A corps of 1500 men, under several chieftains, were sent two
days
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in advance, to wait for our arrival, and to provide for our
forces. Our remaining care was to get our Suliote corps into good order, and to discipline
our cannoneers. As for artillery, supposing that to be necessary, we were to send for a
battering train from the citadel of Corinth.
February 12, 13.—I was occupied during these days in carefully
examining into the state of our Suliote corps, and in reducing their numbers to an
effective body of soldiers, after sending away those who were too young or too old, or too
infirm. In many instances I found in the lists names of persons who were nowhere to be
seen. This was a common device of theirs when serving in the wars against Ali Pacha, and the same deceit prevails in all the Turkish
armies; so that a body of troops which appears upon paper to amount to thirty or forty
thousand is often not more than a
third of that number. The
chieftains receive the pay for the complete force, and put the difference into their own
pockets. The Greeks, at the beginning of their struggle, had been exposed to the same
deception; but a little regularity would soon remedy the evil.
The greatest number of the Suliotes were followers of Constantine Bozzari, whose conduct was more satisfactory
than that of the other chiefs; but even the number of those followers was far from being
permanently arranged; for as each captain was anxious to increase his own importance by
adding to his own troops, he left no means untried to seduce the dependents of other
chieftains; so that it often happened that six or twelve soldiers, who were yesterday under
Giavella, were to-day followers of
Bozzari. We did all in our power to remedy this evil. At last, all
our difficulties seemed at
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an end. We agreed to assemble the whole
body of the Suliotes the next day, to read to them the agreement mutually made between
themselves and with us, and to give them a month’s pay in advance. The day
afterwards, I was to march with the vanguard of 300 of them, and take up a position under
Lepanto. Lord Byron and Prince Mavrocordato were informed of the result of the inspection of the
Suliotes; and the latter confessed to me that they had been the source of infinite
disquietude to him; and that although they certainly were amongst the bravest of the Greek
tribes, at the same time they were the most discontented and intractable.
February 14.—This morning Lord
Byron received letters from the legislative body, and from the new executive
council. They informed him that Pietro Bey and his
friends were gathered together at Tripolizza, and
appeared resolved
to back their pretensions by open force, notwithstanding that the government had taken
every precaution to frustrate their efforts. The factious had, we learnt, taken care to
spread all sorts of ridiculous rumours respecting us and our intentions; one of them was,
that Mavrocordato was about to invade the Morea with
ten thousand men, and then to sell that country to the English. Another story was, that
Lord Byron, in fact, was not an Englishman, but a Turk, under a
false name, who had invented a deep-laid scheme with Mavrocordato for
the ruin of Greece. We laughed heartily at this singular mode of outwitting an antagonist
in politics. But the arrival of many Suliotes from the Morea, where they had served under
Colocotroni, made us suspect that these men had
been sent to Missolonghi to add to our previous dissensions. According to appointment, I
had this morning another | LAST JOURNEY TO GREECE | 169 |
meeting with the Suliote chieftains, in
presence of Mavrocordato; and, after a tedious discussion, these
persons withdrew, and promised to send me their definitive answer in three hours. At five
in the afternoon their answer did arrive. They required that the government should appoint,
out of their number, two generals, two colonels, two captains, and inferior officers in the
same proportion; in short, that out of three or four hundred actual Suliotes, there should
be about one hundred and fifty above the rank of common soldiers. Their object, of course,
was to increase their pay. Mavrocordato was disgusted with their
impudent dishonesty, and Lord Byron burst into a violent passion, and
protested that he would have no more to do with these people. We afterwards found out that
these demands had been instigated by a messenger secretly sent by
Colocotroni, who had promised great ad-vantages to the Suliotes if they would abandon Mavrocordato and join
his party. What was still more distressing to us was the discovery that this very spy of
Colocotroni had been one of those whom Lord
Byron had relieved in Cephalonia, where, indeed, we had already seen enough
of the conduct of the Suliotes to give us no favourable impression of their character. Each
step that we took in Greece convinced us of the indispensable necessity of forming a body
of regular troops.
February 15.—This morning Mavrocordato sent for me: I found him with Nota
Bozzari, who did not scruple to throw all the blame of the indecent conduct
of his countrymen upon those who had arrived recently from the Morea. Shortly afterwards,
all the other chieftains entered the room: I told them at once, on the part of Lord Byron, that his Lordship was glad
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that he had in time discovered that their discords could not by any means be appeased; and
that the most artless intriguer was capable of making them abandon all their intentions,
and break all their promises. Had his Lordship discovered this a little later, perhaps the
cause of Greece and his own character might have been compromised. He had hoped that what
he had done for them might have gained their confidence; and he had intended other efforts
in their favour. Now, however, he was resolved to have nothing more to do with them as a
body, although he neither repented what he had done for them, nor would discontinue to
relieve their families. I concluded by telling them that I was ordered by Lord
Byron to say that every agreement between him and the Suliotes was to be
considered as null and void. Constantine Bozzari
replied, that he lamented their discords, and more parti-cularly on
account of the disgust and disquietude which they must have caused to a person to whom all
Greece, and peculiarly his fellow-countrymen, were under so many obligations, and regarded,
indeed, as their father. But he confessed that these dissensions were too old and
inveterate to be speedily cured, and that they would probably continue; but not so as to
prevent them from fighting for their country, far less to cause them to forget the benefits
received from Lord Byron. They were perfectly aware of what they lost
by their misconduct. As to himself, he added, that he would remain if only five men
remained with him, and would serve under his Lordship as a common soldier. At last we came
to this conclusion: that a new corps should be raised, no matter from what tribe, composed
of six hundred, as before agreed upon; that Bozzari should command
three hundred, and that the other | LAST JOURNEY TO GREECE | 173 |
three hundred should be commanded
by a captain of Lord Byron’s naming: in fine, that the whole
body should act under the immediate orders of his Lordship and his lieutenant.
I carried this proposition to Lord
Byron, who thought it, on the whole, the best that could be now adopted; but he
was exceedingly vexed at the necessary abandonment of his present project against Lepanto,
at the time that the success of it seemed so probable. He had not been able to ride to-day,
nor for some days before, on account of the rain. He had been extremely annoyed at the
vexations caused by the Suliotes, as also with the various other interruptions from
petitions, demands, and remonstrances, which never left him a moment’s peace at any
hour of the day. At seven in the evening I went into his room on some business, and found
him lying on
the sofa: he was not asleep, and seeing me enter, called
out, “I am not asleep—come in—I am not well.”
At eight o’clock, he went down stairs to visit Colonel Stanhope. The conversation turned upon our newspaper.
We agreed that it was not calculated to give foreigners the necessary intelligence of what
was passing in Greece; because, being written in Romaic, it was not intelligible, except to
a few strangers. We resolved to publish another, in several languages, and Lord Byron promised to furnish some articles himself. When I
left the room, he was laughing and joking with Mr.
Parry and the colonel;—he was drinking some cider.
I had scarcely got away before I was overtaken by one of his guards, out of
breath, who told me that my Lord had been seized with a violent convulsion fit.
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I ran back, and found him in bed, with the medical men about him: he
was recovered, but still very weak. For a short time the greatest alarm had prevailed. I
learnt from those who were with him at the time, that, as he was sitting on a sofa, joking
with Parry, and had a glass of cider and water in
his hand, they remarked a sudden change of countenance come over him: he complained of a
pain in his knee, and tried to stand up, but could not walk. At that moment the change of
countenance became more remarkable: he found himself fainting, and fell upon Colonel Stanhope’s bed. He then lost his speech, and
was dreadfully convulsed, so much so, that two strong men, Parry and his servant Battista,
could scarcely hold him down. His features were distorted. The doctors came to him, and in
three minutes he recovered his senses and his speech. He was carried up stairs to his own
bed, and at that time complained only of weakness. No distortion of
the features was now observable. As soon as he could speak, he showed himself perfectly
free from all alarm; but he very coolly asked, whether his attack was likely to prove
fatal? “Let me know,” he said. “Do not think I am afraid to
die—I am not.” He told me that when he lost his speech he did not lose
his senses; that he had suffered great pain, and that he believed, if the convulsion had
lasted a minute longer, he must have died. The same sentiment is expressed in the journal
which he wrote two days after the fit, in which he breaks off the account he was then
putting upon record, in order to notice the news of a Turkish brig being stranded near
Missolonghi. This event seems to have made him at once forget his own calamity. It is
impossible to do justice to the coolness and magnanimity which he displayed upon every
trying occasion. Upon trifling oc- | LAST JOURNEY TO GREECE | 177 |
casions he was certainly irritable;
but the aspect of danger calmed him in an instant, and restored to him the free exercise of
all the powers of his noble nature. A more undaunted man in the hour of peril never
breathed. The attack had been brought on principally by the vexations which I have before
dwelt upon; but his mode of living was also in part a cause of this fit. He ate nothing but
fish, cheese, and vegetables; having regulated his table so as not to cost more than
forty-five paras. This he did to show that he could live on fare as simple as that of the
Greek soldiers. The weather had prevented him from using exercise, and we repeatedly
remonstrated with him on the necessity of some change in his habits. We felt a most painful
alarm at the very suspicion of any serious danger to him; but we flattered ourselves with
the notion that if we could contrive to get him into the open air, and even renew those
violent exercises which had agreed so well with him formerly, he
would not experience any bad consequences from his late attack. Lord
Byron’s fit had not taken place more than half an hour, when a false
alarm was brought to us that the Suliotes had taken to their arms, and were about to attack
the Seraglio, in order to seize upon our powder and cannon, and other magazines. We ran to
our arsenal: Parry ordered the artillerymen under arms; our cannon
were loaded and pointed on the approaches to the gates; the sentinels were doubled.
This alarm had originated with two Germans, who, having taken too much
wine, and seeing a body of soldiers with their guns in their hands, proceeding towards the
Seraglio, had at once thought that a revolution was at hand, and spread their news over the
whole town. The fact was, these troops were merely changing
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quarters.
These Germans were so inconsiderate, that whilst we were at the arsenal, they forced their
way into Byron’s bedchamber, swearing that they
came to defend him and his house. Fortunately, we were not present; for, as this was so
short a time after his Lordship’s attack, we should have been tempted to fling the
intruders out of window.
February 16.—My Lord was better today, and he got up at noon; but he
was very pale and weak, and he had a sensation of weight in his head. The doctors applied
eight leeches to his temples, and the blood flowed very copiously: it was stopped with
difficulty, and he fainted. However, he made a joke of his fit, notwithstanding it was far
from a subject of pleasantry with us, who knew how much depended on the health of Lord Byron.
We had some more news from Lepanto: the Albanians had had another interview
with our messenger, and had expressed themselves ready to give up the castle to my Lord.
Indeed, they added, that they would bring about the surrender of the castles of the Morea
and Patras: but this was only to increase their credit with us.
The fortifications of Missolonghi being very much in want of repair,
Parry undertook to put the city into a perfect
state of defence for 1000 dollars, as also to repair the fortress of Basiladi, which, from
its position in the shallows, might be considered as the key of Missolonghi. The
magistrates accepted the offer, and agreed to give 1500 dollars towards the completion of
the work.
Another opportunity now occurred, by which Lord
Byron was able to follow up
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his former efforts towards
inculcating the principles and practice of humanity into both the nations engaged in the
present struggle. There were two-and-twenty Turks, including women and children, who had
been held in captivity in Missolonghi since the beginning of the Revolution. Lord
Byron made a request to the government that they might be given up to him.
It was granted; and my Lord, after providing them with what was requisite, sent them to
Prevesa, with the following letter to Mr. Mayer, the
English Consul at that port.
“Coming to Greece, one of my principal objects was to alleviate as much
as possible the miseries incident to a warfare so cruel as the present. When
the dictates of humanity are in question, I know no difference between Turks
and Greeks. It is enough that those who want assistance are men, in order to
claim the pity and protection of the meanest pretender to humane feelings. I
have found here twenty-four Turks, including women and children, who have long
pined in distress, far from
the means of support and the
consolations of their home. The government has consigned them to me: I transmit
them to Prevesa, whither they desire to be sent. I hope you will not object to
take care that they may be restored to a place of safety, and that the governor
of your town may accept of my present. The best recompense I can hope for would
be to find that I had inspired the Ottoman commanders with the same sentiments
towards those unhappy Greeks who may hereafter fall into their hands.
“I beg you to believe me, &c.
Amongst the Turks at Missolonghi there was a girl of eight or nine years of age, very lively and with handsome oriental
features, who had lived for three years in the town upon the charity of the inhabitants. In
the time of the Turks her family had been one of the most wealthy and powerful of the whole
city; but when the Revolution broke out, her father made his escape, and was now with
Yussuff Pacha. My Lord was struck with her
pitiable condition, and
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took charge of her; and as at this time
neither she nor her mother wished to be sent to Prevesa with their fellow-countrymen, he
prepared to have them conveyed to the Ionian Islands, and thence either to England or to
Italy, for her education. For this purpose he wrote to Dr.
Kennedy of Cephalonia, requesting that his excellent lady would be so good
as to undertake the care of the girl, at least for a few months.
February 17.—News was brought to us this morning that a Turkish brig
of war had stranded upon a shoal of sand about seven miles from the city, and that many
Greek boats manned with soldiers had set off in the hope of making a prize of her. After
twelve o’clock, we went with Parry and some
other European officers, to reconnoitre the brig, which we conjectured would turn out a
prize of considerable value. A broad and long neck of land, separating the shal-
lows from the sea, ran out towards the spot where the vessel was
stranded, and we discovered that it would be easy to plant a couple of cannon under cover
of this point, and to make ourselves masters of the brig. This day, with the assistance of
Mavrocordato, I finally arranged with Constantine Bozzari and Kizzo
Giavella, that they should enrol a troop of six hundred men belonging to any
tribe they pleased, provided only that they were from Koumelia, where the people are better
acquainted with mountain warfare, and more inured to fatigue, than in the Morea. The whole
body were to be under the orders of Lord Byron.
February 18.—Early in the morning we prepared for our attack on the
brig. Lord Byron, notwithstanding his weakness and an
inflammation that threatened his eyes, was most anxious to be of our party; but
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the physician would not suffer him to go. Mavrocordato, Colonel Stanhope,
Constantine Bozzari, and a considerable body of
troops, rowed over to the neck of land in canoes across the shallows. In the mean time,
Parry was putting in order his cannon and his
artillery-men, which could not be embarked before noon. When we came up, we found three
Turkish brigs from Patras, whose launches were making every effort to draw the vessel from
the sand into deep water, but without effect. They then began to disarm the brig. We
approached as near as we could, in order to interrupt their operations and to gain time:
they fired a few vollies at us, but without doing any mischief. Unfortunately, as the tide
was down, we could not bring up our guns until sunset: at last we heard a loud explosion,
and saw the vessel in flames; for the Turks having taken out the crew and what they could
save of the stores, had set fire to the brig. We passed the night in
the boats. Such was the end of our expedition. Lord Byron had promised
a reward for every Turk taken alive in the proposed attack on the vessel.
February 19.—In the morning, Colonel
Stanhope returned to Missolonghi, whilst Mavrocordato and the others went some way round, in order to touch at
Basiladi, where the Prince was expected to give the meeting to the captain of an English
frigate, who had arrived the day before at Missolonghi, to complain as usual of the capture
of some Ionian boats; and not finding the governor in the town, had appointed a conference
with him at Basiladi the next day. This took place at nine in the morning; and leaving
Mavrocordato with the English officers, I continued my route with
Constantine Bozzari toward Missolonghi.
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At eleven o’clock I arrived there. Entering the yard of our house, I
remarked that Byron’s two small cannon were
pointed against the gateway: this was quite new. I went into the house; there was a dead
silence in the apartments. I soon learnt the cause: there had been a fray between the
Suliotes and our artillery-men. Sasse, one of our
German officers, was mortally wounded. The Suliotes were in arms: it was thought they would
attack the Seraglio, and perhaps even our own house: the city was in a great alarm. A
council was immediately held with Lord Byron and Colonel Stanhope, and it was decided, either that all the
Suliotes should depart from Missolonghi, or that my Lord and every foreigner would at once
leave the town.
Lord Byron spoke of going to the Ionian Islands, and
waiting the arrival of the de-
puties; both his personal safety (under
these new circumstances) and his health seemed to require the change.
I ran to the arsenal—Sasse was
no more. The guns were pointed against the doorway; all the Franks had retired thither; and
the utmost sadness as well as anger prevailed in the whole party.
Many contradictory stories were told to me as to the manner in which this
sad event had occurred; but I believe the truth to have been as follows:
A Suliote, formerly a friend of Marco
Bozzari, and now a follower of his brother, much esteemed for his courage and his gentleness, came to the
Seraglio (where he had lived for six months), with a little nephew of
Bozzari, to show him our cannon and other instruments of warfare.
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The guard at the door, one of our artillerymen, stopped him,
saying he was not allowed to enter; and indeed such an order had been given, in order to
keep off the crowd of curious Greeks, who would otherwise have impeded our operations. The
Suliote answered, that he was one of the house, and tried to push forward. The serjeant, an
Hungarian, ran up, took hold of him by the breast, and endeavoured to turn him away by
force. The Suliote got into a rage, and gave him a blow: the serjeant was without arms, and
called out for the guard. Sasse, who was the officer
on guard, ran down stairs, and finding the serjeant struggling with the Suliote, drew his
sword, and told him to arrest the intruder. The Suliote now wished to retire, but
Sasse persisted in his arrest, and gave him a blow on the neck
with the flat of his sword. The Suliote could contain himself no longer; he drew his
attaghan, and wounded Sasse in his left arm, which he almost separated
from his body. The serjeant contrived to open the pan of one of the
pistols belonging to the Suliote, and to throw out the priming; but the man drew out the
other, fired, and shot Sasse with three balls in the head, who fell
lifeless, without speaking a word. The whole had passed in less time than I am telling the
story. The artillery-men ran to the spot and arrested the Suliote, whose left hand it
appeared had been wounded with more than one ball, although the second pistol had not been
discharged, and no one had fired but himself; so that we concluded he must have shot
himself with part of the charge that had wounded Sasse. Shortly after,
his countrymen crowded in great numbers about the Seraglio, which they threatened to burn,
unless the man was released. This was accordingly done, in order to prevent worse
disasters.
Sasse survived only half an hour. He was universally
esteemed as one of the best
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and bravest of the foreigners in the
service of Greece.
The Suliotes now determined to leave the town; but this put an end to the
enterprise against Lepanto. They talked of marching upon Arta, where they hoped to find
considerable booty. They owned that they did not like to fight against stone walls.
Lord Byron offered to give them a month’s pay
if they would go; and they might go where they pleased.
February 20.—This day the funeral of poor Sasse took place. He was buried with much ceremony in a grave between
Marco Bozzari and General Normann. The Suliote chiefs attempted to lay all the blame of this
accident on Sasse himself, whose imprudence indeed was scarcely to be
justified: but at any rate, we were convinced that the best thing for us would be to get
rid of these fierce mountaineers, who appeared altogether
intractable. The primates came in a body to pay a visit to Lord
Byron. They first inquired after his health; then condoled with him on the
loss of Sasse, and concluded by requesting a loan of 3000 dollars,
without which they said they could not be quit of these rude soldiers. Lord
Byron granted their request, on condition that they would take care that the
Suliotes actually did go; but, he added, that as for himself, he had resolved to abandon
for the present his intention of engaging personally in some military enterprise.
My Lord went out riding. He was exceedingly vexed. “I begin to
fear,” said he to me, “that I have done nothing but lose time,
money, patience, and health; but I was prepared for it: I knew that ours was not a path
of roses, and that I
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ought to make up my mind to meet with
deception, and calumny, and ingratitude.”
I begged him most strenuously to pay a visit to Athens, for his health, and
to relieve himself from his daily annoyances. “No,” he replied,
“no, they would not leave me more tranquil there than here; besides, I did not
come here in search of tranquillity; I am neither undeceived nor discouraged. You know
very well that this enterprise of mine was only a secondary object; my first aim was to
know something of those soldiers. I think we have gained that point at least. I must
wait here to see the turn that things take in the Morea, and to receive news from
London. In the mean time we will fortify Missolonghi and Anatolico; and we will see
what sort of regular troops we can make of the Greeks by accustom-
ing them to discipline under foreign officers.”
February 21.—A fresh disappointment awaited Lord Byron; for this morning six of the artificers, who came out with
Parry, declared their resolution to return to
England. They said that they had bargained to be conducted into a place of safety.
Byron tried to persuade them that the fray had been accidental;
and that, after the departure of the Suliotes, nothing of the kind would happen again;
besides that, as he staid, there could not be any serious danger. His arguments were
useless: they said they had heard balls whistle over their heads whilst at work, and that
they should be murdered. It was in vain to tell them that the firing of ball was a daily
occurrence—they would go. But Mr. Parry remained, with only two
men, who were rather as-
| LAST JOURNEY TO GREECE | 195 |
sistants than artificers. This step made us
fear that our laboratory would come to nothing; for if we tried to supply the place of the
artificers with native Greeks, we should make but little progress.
About eight o’clock this evening we had a violent shock of an
earthquake. This occasioned a general discharge of musketry throughout the town, according
to a superstition of the Greeks on such occasions.
February 22.—A new plan was resolved upon for the reorganisation of
our artillery corps. Lord Byron agreed to add to the
funds provided for that object, so as to enable us to augment the number of our men. Part
of these were to be trained to artillery exercise, the rest to the use of the musket, as a
guard for the guns. We could not have a regular body of infantry, having no muskets with
bayonets. Our
object was twofold: if we should be disappointed of our
means to create a larger body of regular troops, we might add a number of undisciplined
forces, and Lord Byron could take the field with them in the spring.
If, on the contrary, our succours arrived in time, we might then form a considerable corps
of disciplined soldiers, upon the model of those already established. The government
undertook to furnish rations for us. This evening Lord Byron suffered
a slight return of his attack, in the right leg; but it quickly disappeared.
February 23 to 28.—We were much busied in preparing letters for the
Ionian Islands, Italy, and England, which were to go by the artificers. The primates came
in a body to visit my Lord again. Their visit had the usual object. They began with thanks
and adulation, and then concluded with asking for more money. Lord
Byron
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was tired of this way of going on; and not only refused them, but
declared that, unless they put a stop to their importunities, he should be obliged, however
against his will, to leave the country. They were mortified at his answer, and retired.
The weather was somewhat better. Lord
Byron was able to renew his former long rides, and his health received a
visible benefit from them. We feared, however, that he had adopted too abstemious a mode of
living. He took no other food than vegetables and fish, and drank only water. He was always
inclined to follow extremes. Parry found some Greek
artificers, who enabled him to make some progress with his laboratory. Our artillery
recruits were increased in number, and their exercises were performed with admirable
promptitude and precision. There was no want of volunteers,
so that
we were able to select those whom we thought best suited for our purpose.
At this time Mr. Finlay, an English
gentleman, came from Athens, having been eleven days on the road. He brought a message from
Ulysses, and also from Mr. Trelawny, who acted as his aid-de-camp, to Lord
Byron, and to Prince Mavrocordato.
The purport of this message was to invite them to a conference at Salona.
Ulysses was now understood to be extremely well-disposed to
compose all his former differences with the government; and, being individually of much
importance, it was expedient to give every attention to his proposal. He was at this time
besieging Negropont and Caristo; and, with the exception of these fortresses, the remainder
of the island of Eubœa was in his hands. His forces amounted to between 3000 and
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4000 men. He requested a supply of Congreve’s rockets, of
powder, and cannon; but all we could do was to send him a few barrels of powder.
Ulysses was formerly in the service of Ali Pacha; and even at this time his body-guard is composed of Mahometans.
Since the beginning of the revolution he has served his country with zeal and energy, and a
presence of mind which is his characteristic trait. He is accused of being ambitious; but
avarice is not imputed to him. He determined to put the citadel of Athens into an excellent
state of defence, and to provision it with equal care. The mode in which he accomplished
this latter object is worth telling. The primates and the chiefs of the neighbouring
province had confided that fortress to his care, but without assisting him to feed the
garrison; for, when he applied to the inhabitants of the town and vicinity for provision,
they would furnish him with none. Accordingly, he marched off half of
his troops from the fortress, and gave out that they were gone to meet the enemy at only
half a day’s journey from Athens. At this news the inhabitants of the town ran with
their stores as fast as possible into the Acropolis, and, before the stratagem was
discovered, the citadel had provisions enough within its walls to last for a year.
February 28.—We had news from the Morea that their discords were
almost at an end. The government was acquiring credit daily, and Staico and Coliopulo, relations and zealous partisans of Colocotroni, were observed to have daily conferences with those at the head
of affairs. The Acrocorinthus was in the hands of Notora, a chieftain
attached to the government; so that, on the whole, the Greek affairs appeared to take as
favourable an aspect as we could well desire.
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Each day we had offers of service from some foreigner or the other, either
of those who were still alive of the former Phillelenic corps, or of travellers newly
arrived in the country. Lord Byron admitted almost all
of them, either into the artillery corps, or as a sort of chosen guard, thinking it of the
utmost importance to engage as many officers as possible, in order to be prepared for
disciplining the soldiery, when we should be able to augment the number of our regular
forces. Thus we had them of all nations—English, Scotch, Irish, Americans, Germans,
Swiss, Belgians, Russians, Swedes, Danes, Hungarians, and Italians. We were a sort of
crusade in miniature. The word of command was given in Greek, but French and Italian were
the languages in common use.
My Lord and Prince Mavrocordato
settled that, in a fortnight, they would go to Salona.
[John Gibson Lockhart],
“Lord Byron” in Blackwood’s Edinburgh Magazine
Vol. 17
No. 97 (February 1825)
Count Gamba’s name comes upon
our ears, associated with some very disagreeable recollections; and his book is—as a book—but a poor one. It
contains, however, quite enough of facts to satisfy all mankind that Lord
Byron in Greece was everything that the friends of freedom, and the friends
of genius, could have wished him to be. Placed amidst all the perplexities of most vile and
worthless, intriguing factions—at the same time exposed to and harassed by the open
violence of many utterly irreconcilable sets of mere barbarian
robbers—the equally barbarous chiefs of whom were pretending to play the parts of
gentlemen and generals—and, what was perhaps still more trying, perpetually annoyed,
interrupted, and baffled by the ignorance, folly, and obstinate drivelling, of his own
coadjutors, such as Colonel Stanhope and the German
Philhellenes—he, and he alone, appears to have sustained throughout the calmness of a
philosopher, the integrity of a patriot, and the constancy of a hero. If anything could
have done Greece real good, in her own sense of the word, at this crisis, it must have been
the prolongation of the life he had devoted to her service. He had brought with him to her
shores a name glorious and commanding; but, ere he died, the influence of his tried
prudence, magnanimous self-denial, and utter superiority to faction, and all factious
views, had elevated him into a position of authority, before which, even the most
ambitiously unprincipled of the Greek leaders were beginning to feel the necessity of
controlling their passions, and silencing their pretensions. The arrival of part of the
loan from England—procured, as it unquestionably had been, chiefly through the
influence of his name—was, no doubt, the circumstance that gave such commanding
elevation to his personal influence in Greece, during the closing scenes of his career. But
nothing except the visible and undoubted excellence of his deportment on occasions the most
perplexing—nothing but the moral dignity expressed in every word and action of his
while in Greece—nothing but the eminent superiority of personal character, resources,
and genius which he had exhibited—could possibly have reconciled the minds of those
hostile factious to the notion of investing any Foreigner and Frank with the supreme
authority of their executive government. We have no sort of doubt, that if
Byron had died three months later, he would have died governor of
all the emancipated provinces of Greece. This is a melancholy thought, but it is also a
proud one. . . .
Ali Pasha of Yannina (1740-1822)
Albanian warlord who expanded his territories during the Napoleonic wars but was
eventually suppressed by the Ottoman Turks; he entertained Byron in 1809.
Kostas Botsaris [Κοστας Βοτσαρις] (1792-1853)
Greek chieftain who was with Byron at Missolonghi; he was the brother of Marcos Botzaris.
He later served as a general and a senator in the Greek kingdom.
Markos Botsaris [Μαρκος Βοτσαρις] (1790-1823)
Greek leader in the War of Independence who died heroically at the Battle of Karpenisi.
He was the brother of Kostas (Constantine) Botzaries.
General Colliopulo [Κολιοπουλος] (1825 fl.)
A Greek chieftain associated with Theodore Colocotronis and favored by Leicester Stanhope
of the London Greek Committee.
George Finlay (1799-1875)
After study at Glasgow he fought in Greece where he saw much of Byron, afterwards buying
an estate in Attica. He was the author of
History of Greece, 7 vols
(1844-61).
Hatagèe (1824 fl.)
A Turkish girl of about nine years of age who Byron rescued while in Missolonghi and
proposed sending to Dr. James Kennedy for adoption; in the event, she was restored to her
father, Hussein Aga, a secretary to Yusuf Pasha.
James Kennedy (1793 c.-1827)
Scottish physician in the British forces; his experiences with Byron in Cephalonia were
published as
Conversations on Religion with Lord Byron
(1830).
Lt. Kinderman (1824 fl.)
Prussian Philhellene who traveled to Greece in the Hope, arriving in November 1823; he
was with Byron and Missolonghi until, dissatisfied with his circumstances, he decamped in
February 1824.
Sir Thomas Maitland (1760-1824)
Lieutenant-general and colonial administrator; he was commander-in-chief of Ceylon
(1806-11) and lord high commissioner of the Ionian islands, and of the Mediterranean
(1815).
Prince Alexander Mavrocordatos [Αλεξανδρος Μαβροκορδατος] (1791-1865)
Greek statesman and diplomat with Byron at Missolonghi; after study at the University of
Padua he joined the Greek Revolution in 1821 and in 1822 was elected by the National
Assembly at Epidaurus. He commanded forces in western Central Greece and retired in 1826
after the Fall of Messolonghi.
William Meyer (1835 fl.)
English consul-general at Ioannina (1819-35).
Julius Michael Millingen (1800-1878)
Physician at Missolonghi and author of
Memoirs of the Affairs of Greece
with Anecdotes relating to Lord Byron (1831). In 1825 he joined the Turks and
spent the remainder of his days living in Constantinople.
Odysseas Androutsos [Οδησευς] (1788-1825)
The son of Andreas Androutsos; he was the principal chieftain in eastern Greece and
political opponent of the constitutional government of Alexander Mavrocordatos, who was
instrumental in having him assassinated.
Omer Vrionis (1828 fl.)
Born in Albania, he served under Ali Pasha and was an Ottoman commander during the Greek
Revolution and the Russo-Turkish War of 1828.
Lord Sidney Godolphin Osborne (1789-1861)
He was the son of Sir Francis Godolphin Osborne, fifth duke of Leeds by his second
marriage, the first having ended in divorce after Amelia Darcy (mother of Augusta Leigh)
eloped with Byron's father.
William Parry (1773-1859)
Military engineer at Missolonghi; he was author of
The Last Days of
Lord Byron (1825).
Lieutenant Sass (d. 1824)
Finnish soldier who served in the Swedish and Swiss armies before taking up arms against
the Turks, originally with a German troop; he was murdered by the Suliotes at
Missolonghi.
Staikos Staikopoulos [Στασιος] (1799-1835)
A Greek commander during the War of Independence who took the fortress of Palamidi at
Nafplio and was allied with Colocotronis.
Leicester Fitzgerald Charles Stanhope, fifth earl of Harrington (1784-1862)
The third son of the third earl; in 1823 he traveled to Greece as the Commissioner of the
London Greek Committee; there he served with Byron, whom he criticizes in
Greece in 1823 and 1824 (1824). He inherited the earldom from his brother in
1851.
Edward John Trelawny (1792-1881)
Writer, adventurer, and friend of Shelley and Byron; author of the fictionalized memoirs,
Adventures of a Younger Son (1831) and
Recollections of the Last Days of Shelley and Byron (1858).
Yusuf Pasha (1824 fl.)
The Turkish commander at Patras during the Greek War of Independence.