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The Life and Correspondence of Robert Southey
Robert Southey to John May, 1 August 1817
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Preface
Vol. I Contents
Early Life: I
Early Life: II
Early Life: III
Early Life: IV
Early Life: V
Early Life: VI
Early Life: VII
Early Life: VIII
Early Life: IX
Early Life: X
Early Life: XI
Early Life: XII
Early Life: XIII
Early Life: XIV
Early Life: XV
Early Life: XVI
Early Life: XVII
Ch. I. 1791-93
Ch. II. 1794
Ch. III. 1794-95
Ch. IV. 1796
Ch. V. 1797
Vol. II Contents
Ch. VI. 1799-1800
Ch. VII. 1800-1801
Ch. VIII. 1801
Ch. IX. 1802-03
Ch. X. 1804
Ch. XI. 1804-1805
Vol. III Contents
Ch. XII. 1806
Ch. XIII. 1807
Ch. XIV. 1808
Ch. XV. 1809
Ch. XVI. 1810-1811
Ch. XVII. 1812
Vol. IV Contents
Ch. XVIII. 1813
Ch. XIX. 1814-1815
Ch. XX. 1815-1816
Ch. XXI. 1816
Ch. XXII. 1817
Ch. XXIII. 1818
Ch. XXIV. 1818-1819
Vol. IV Appendix
Vol. V Contents
Ch. XXV. 1820-1821
Ch. XXVI. 1821
Ch. XXVII. 1822-1823
Ch. XXVIII. 1824-1825
Ch. XXIX. 1825-1826
Ch. XXX. 1826-1827
Ch. XXXI. 1827-1828
Vol. V Appendix
Vol. VI Contents
Ch. XXXII. 1829
Ch. XXXIII. 1830
Ch. XXXIV. 1830-1831
Ch. XXXV. 1832-1834
Ch. XXXVI. 1834-1836
Ch. XXXVII. 1836-1837
Ch. XXXVIII. 1837-1843
Vol. VI Appendix
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“Brussels, Aug. 1. 1817.
“My dear Friend,

“I wrote you a long letter* from Geneva, on our way to Italy, and since that time I have written twice to London; so that I conclude you would hear by roundabout means that I had reached Milan, and afterwards, that we had safely returned into Switzerland. From Geneva we made for Mont Cenis, and turned aside from Chamberry to visit the Grande Chartreuse, which, after all that we have since seen,

* This seems to have been a letter of elaborate description. It never reached its destination, having been destroyed by the person to whom it was given to put into the post, for the sake of appropriating the postage money!

272 LIFE AND CORRESPONDENCE Ætat. 43.
remains impressed upon our minds as one of the finest imaginable scenes. . . . . At Milan I purchased some books. Thence to Como, where I found
Landor, and we remained three days. Bellaggio, twenty miles from Como, upon the fork of the lake, is the finest single spot I have ever seen, commanding three distant lake views, each of the grandest character. Lugano was our next stage, and somewhere here it is, that if climate and scenery alone were to be consulted, I should like to pitch my tent; perhaps at Laveno upon the Lago Maggiore. The Isola Bella, upon that lake, is of all extravagant follies the most absurd. Having crossed the lake, we entered upon the Simplon road, which, on the whole, I do not think so fine as the passage of Mont Cenis. But it is foolish to compare things which are in so many respects essentially different. In the Maurienne, and indeed when you begin to descend into Piedmont, the world seems tumbling to pieces about your ears, of such perishable materials are the mountains made. In the Simplon, you have generally rocks of granite. A glorious Alpine descent brought us into the Valais, which, even more than the Maurienne, is the land of goitres and cretins, both more numerous and more shocking to behold than I could have believed possible. At Martigny, we halted and crossed to Chamouny by the Tête Noir. In the album at the Montanvert, I found John Coleridge’s adventures in going to the Garden, as it is called: unluckily the ink with which he wrote has made them in part illegible.

“We returned by the Tête Noir as we came,
Ætat. 43. OF ROBERT SOUTHEY. 273
the Col de Balme being still covered in great part with snow; and proceeding by Vevay and Lausanne, returned to
Mr. Awdry’s, at Echichens, where we rested three days. Just four weeks had elapsed since we left that place, and it was a high enjoyment to find ourselves again among friends. . . . . Proceeding to Berne*, we sent our carriage to Zurich,

* The following account of Fellenberg’s Institution at Hofwyl near Berne, may interest the reader:—“Immediately after breakfast we drove to the noted spot. Fellenberg was not within when I delivered Sir T. Acland’s letter and the book with which he had entrusted me; a messenger was despatched to seek him, and a young man meanwhile carried us over the institution, and to a warehouse full of agricultural machines and instruments made upon new principles, many of them so exceedingly complicated that it seemed as if the object had been how to attain the end desired by the most complex means; to the smiths, the blacksmiths, &c. &c.; we also visited the dairy, which was really a fine one, being so contrived that in hot weather half the floor is covered with cold water, and in time of severe frost with hot; the granaries, &c., and the place of gymnastics, where the boys are taught to climb ropes, and walk upon round poles. About an hour had been passed in this manner when F. returned. His countenance is highly intelligent; his light eyes uncommonly clear and keen; his manners those of a man of the world, not of an enthusiast. He entered into a long detail, rather of his own history than of his system. He had been the only member of the Council, he said, who, at the first invasion, proposed vigorous resistance, so as to make all Switzerland a la Vendée: they talked of shooting him, &c. Afterwards, some of the Swiss directory who knew him, and whom he knew to be desirous of doing the best they could for their country under such calamitous circumstances, induced him, as he was at Paris on private business, to remain there as secretary to the embassy, and serve Switzerland as well as he could against her own ambassador and the French government. This, I think, was intended as an apology for his political life. His object, he said, was, in the first place, to fulfil his duty as father of a family, and as a citizen. He wished to restore the moral character of Switzerland; to raise her again to her former respectable state; and to make her the means of rendering services to Europe which other powers might receive from her without jealousy. This part of his plan turned out to be a wild scheme of instituting a seminary for those who were destined by birth to hold offices; princes, peers, and statesmen: they were to be educated so as to know and love each other: the purest Christianity was to be practically taught; and his institution was then to co-operate with the

274 LIFE AND CORRESPONDENCE Ætat. 43.
and struck into the Oberland, where we travelled ten days by land and water, on horseback or on foot, sometimes in cars, and sometimes in carts. The snow rendered it impossible to cross the Grimsel without more risk than it would have been justifiable to in-

Christian Alliance, which was the favourite scheme of the Emperor Alexander and the Emperor of Austria. This part of his institution, though very high prices were paid by the individuals, did not support itself, the expense of masters being so great. The agronomic part afforded funds, from the farm (which appeared in beautiful order) and the manufacture of agricultural implements upon his improvements, the demand for them being great. All that we had seen were about to be sent off to those who had bespoken them. About 200 workmen are employed; a third part assisted in the education of poor destitute children,—there were only about thirty; these amply supported themselves by the employments in which they were trained. The aristocracy of Berne discouraged him; treated him as a visionary, and even forbade the circulation of those books which expounded his views; I should not be able to get them anywhere in Switzerland, only at Geneva: so he gave me the collection. As for the seminary for statesmen, I cannot but suspect there is more of humbug than of enthusiasm in it. F. neither looks nor talks like a man who can suppose himself destined to found a school like the philosophers of old. If he has any enthusiasm it is respecting agriculture, which he spoke of as the means of developing moral virtues. And he was proud of his inventions, and evidently hurt that the Board of Agriculture had not acknowledged the receipt of some which he had presented to them, and not published the result of experiments made with them. He had also made experiments of great importance upon the nature of different soils, as to their property of retaining heat and moisture. Of Dr. Bell he was disposed to speak slightingly, saying he was an enthusiast and an excellent schoolmaster, but unfit for a director*. Upon this point I told him of Madras; he thought that the Doctor pushed the principle of emulation too far, and used means for encouraging a spirit which is in itself but too prevalent. On this point he spoke in a manner which in some measure accorded with my own judgment.

Kosciuzko’s name was in the book of visitors. He requested me at my leisure to give him some account of the best works which had been published in England during the French Revolution, that he might send for them for his library; for though he did not speak our language he understood it, and was desirous that our literature should be cultivated on the continent. He had about 250 acres in cultivation, and inspected his labourers from a tower with a telescope; because, as one of his people said, he cannot be in all places at the same time.”

Ætat. 43. OF ROBERT SOUTHEY. 275
cur. We slept on the Righi. At Zurich a day’s halt was necessary for the love of the washerwoman. We then set off homeward in good earnest, through the Black Forest. . . . . We then made for Frankfort and Mentz, and down the left bank of the Rhine to Cologne, where we saw the three kings, and a very considerable number of the eleven thousand virgins—certainly some thousands of them—a sight more curious than any of its kind in Portugal or Spain. Here we arrived last night. . . . I have made large purchases, which, with the Acta Sanctorum, now at last completed, will fill three chests. Verbiest has promised to despatch them immediately. You may well imagine how anxious I am to hear from home, and how desirous to get there. As for news, we have lived so long without it, that the appetite seems almost extinguished. By mere chance I got at Zurich a German account of
Massena’s campaign in Portugal, written by a physician of his army. My knowledge of the subject assisted me greatly in making out the meaning, and I have found in it some curious matter. As far as I can learn, this is the only original document concerning the war which has yet been published in Germany.

“I have been perfectly well during the journey, and the knowledge it has given me amply repays the expense both of money and of time. It has been with great difficulty that I could keep up my Journal, so fully has every day and every hour been occupied, from five and frequently four in the morning. I have, however, kept it. My spirits have been equal
276 LIFE AND CORRESPONDENCE Ætat. 43.
to any demand which outward circumstances might make upon them; but to live always out of oneself is not possible, and in those circumstances which frequently occur amidst the excitement and exhilaration of such a journey, my lonely feelings have perhaps been more poignant than they would have been amid the even tenor of domestic life; but I have learnt to give them their proper direction, and when I am once more at home, I shall feel the benefit of having travelled.

“God bless you, my dear friend! And believe me most truly and affectionately,

Yours,
Robert Southey.”