Memoir of John Murray
Chap. XXXV.
CHAPTER XXXV.
MURRAY’S ‘HANDBOOKS.’
No account of Mr.
Murray’s career would be complete without some mention of the
‘Handbooks,’ with which his name has been for sixty years associated; for
though this series was in reality the invention of his son, it was Mr.
Murray who provided the means and encouragement for the execution of the
scheme, and by his own experience was instrumental in ensuring its success.
An article written by the present Mr.
Murray has formed the basis of this chapter, but the information contained
therein has been supplemented by extracts from several unpublished letters written by him
during his travels in Europe, while he was writing or revising the ‘Handbooks.’
It would perhaps be impossible to say what was the origin of the idea of
guide-books for travellers; so far back as 1817 we have seen Mr. Hobhouse, after commenting on the inadequate character of most books of
European travel, writing from Italy:—
“If any one writes a book of travels without telling the truth
about the masters and the subjects in this most unfortunate country, he deserves more
than damnation and a dull sale, and I trust you will take care he has a niche in your
temple of infamy, the Quarterly. If any but a gentleman, and a scholar, and an
accomplished man in every way presumes to hazard such an undertaking, ‘be
ready,’ Mr. Murray, ‘with all your
thunderbolts to dash him to pieces.’
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“There is a wide field of glory open for any and for all answering
the above description: but it would perhaps be almost impossible to find the requisite
variety of acquirement and talent in one individual. The work should be done like a
cyclopede dictionary, by departments.”
In later years Mrs. Starke made a
beginning, but her works were very superficial and inadequate, and after personally testing
them on their own ground, Mr. John Murray wrote from
Munich, in September 1831:—
“I am very sorry to find that Mrs.
Starke has been so precipitate in reprinting her book. The errors in the
German part of it are innumerable, and I have taken great pains, ever since I first
went abroad to collect information, to improve it. A new and very much improved edition
of Reichardt has recently been published. Would it be worth
translating, do you think? The last edition, published by Leigh, is perfectly detestable—errors in almost every
line.”
Be the origin, however, what it may, there can be no doubt that its
development in its present familiar form is due to the present Mr. Murray, who writes:—*
“Since so many thousands of persons have profited by these books,
it may be of some interest to the public to learn their origin, and the cause which led
me to prepare them. Having from my early youth been possessed by an ardent desire to
travel, my very indulgent father acceded to my request, on condition that I should
prepare myself by mastering the language of the country I was to travel in.
Accordingly, in 1829, having brushed up my German, I first set foot on the Continent at
Rotterdam, and my ‘Handbook for Holland’ gives the results of my personal
observations and private studies of that wonderful country.
“At that time such a thing as a Guide-book for Germany, France,
or Spain did not exist. The only
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Guides deserving the name were:
Ebel, for Switzerland; Boyce, for Belgium; and Mrs. Starke for Italy. Hers was a work of real utility, because, amidst
a singular medley of classical lore, borrowed from Lempriere’s Dictionary, interwoven with
details regulating the charges in washing-bills at Sorrento and Naples, and an
elaborate theory on the origin of Devonshire Cream, in which she
proves that it was brought by Phoenician colonists from Asia Minor into the West of
England, it contained much practical information gathered on the spot. But I set forth
for the North of Europe unprovided with any guide, excepting a few manuscript notes
about towns and inns, &c., in Holland, furnished me by my good friend Dr. Somerville, husband of the learned Mrs. Somerville. These were of the greatest use. Sorry
was I when, on landing at Hamburg, I found myself destitute of such friendly aid. It
was this that impressed on my mind the value of practical information gathered on the
spot, and I set to work to collect for myself all the facts, information, statistics,
&c., which an English tourist would be likely to require or find useful. I
travelled thus, note-book in hand, and whether in the street, the Eilwagen, or the Picture Gallery, I noted down every fact
as it occurred. These note-books (of which I possess many dozens) were emptied out on
my return home, arranged in Routes, along with such other information as I could gather
on History, Architecture, Geology, and other subjects suited to a traveller’s
need; and, finally, I submitted them to my father. He had known nothing of my scheme,
but thought my work worth publishing, and gave it the name of ‘Handbook,’ a
title applied by him for the first time to an English book. But these Routes would have
been of comparatively little value, except for the principle and plan upon which they
were laid down. I had to consult the wants and convenience of travellers in the order
and arrangement of my facts. Arriving at a city like Berlin, I had to find out what was
really worth seeing there, to make a selection of such objects, and to tell how best to
see them, avoiding the ordinary practice of local Guide-books, which, in inflated
language, cram in everything that can possibly be said—not bewildering my readers
by describing all that might be seen—and using the most
condensed and simplest style in description of special objects. I made it my aim to
point 462 | MEMOIRS OF JOHN MURRAY | |
out things peculiar to the spot, or
which might be better seen there than elsewhere. Having drawn up my Routes, and having
had them roughly set in type, I proceeded to test them by lending them to friends about
to travel, in order that they might be verified or criticised on the spot. I did not
begin to publish until after several successive journeys and temporary residences in
Continental cities, and after I had not only traversed beaten Routes, but explored
various districts into which my countrymen had not yet penetrated.
“I began my travels not only before a single railway had been
begun, but while North Germany was yet ignorant of Macadam. The high road from Hamburg
to Berlin, except the first 16 miles, which had been engineered and macadamised by an
uncle of mine by way of example to the departments of Ponts et Chaussées, was a
mere wheel track in the deep sand of Brandenburg. The postilion who drove the miscalled
Schnellpost had to choose for himself
a devious course amidst the multitude of ruts and big boulders of which the sand was
full, and he consumed two days and a night on the dreary journey. In those days the
carriage of that country (the Stuhlwagen )
was literally a pliable basket on wheels, seated across, which bent in conformity with
the ruts and stones it had to pass over. . . . I was among the first to descend the
Danube from Pesth to Orsova below Belgrade, near the spot where the river, having
previously spread out to a width of five miles, is compelled to contract to 300 or 400
yards, in order to rush through a narrow gorge, or defile, split right through the
range of the Carpathians, for its escape towards the Black Sea. In a timber barge I
swept over the reefs and whirlpools in its bed, not yet fit for steamers to pass,
admiring the wondrous precipices descending vertically to the water’s edge, as
far as to the Iron Gate. All this is described for the first time in my Handbook, as
well as the ‘writing on the wall’ left by the Romans under Trajan, in the
shape of two rows of put-lock holes, continued for 12 miles along the face of the
precipice, made for the wooden balcony road by which the invincible Romans had rendered
this ‘impasse’ passable and practicable for their armies. It is worthy of
remark that from the days of Barbarian invasion which swept away the road, none other
existed on this spot until 1834-35, when the Austrian Government blasted a highway
through the
limestone cliff along the
left bank of the Danube. My explorations ended at the Turkish frontier of Wallachia,
which was not to be overstepped in those days without the penalty of six weeks in
quarantine. I had already passed the Hungarian military frontier, and its line of
outposts like our coastguard, and had penetrated into Carinthia and Carniola, where I
visited the almost unknown cave of Adelsberg, with its subterannean lakes and fish
without eyes, and I descended the quicksilver mine of Idria, in which it is death to
work more than six hours in a week underground. I have especial pleasure in remembering
that the first description, in English, of the Dolomite
Mountains of Tyrol, not a scientific one (Murchison and Sedgwick were
before me), appeared in my ‘South Germany,’ first edition. I explored those
scenes of grandeur in company with a geological friend in 1831-32. Thousands of my
countrymen now follow my advice and my footsteps yearly.”
While the younger Mr. Murray was
the originator and author of the well-known ‘Guides,’ it is to his father that
the familiar name of ‘Handbook’ is due, as well as the uniform red cover which
has become the badge of the British traveller.
The following extracts from Mr. John
Murray’s letters home tell their own tale, and any comment on them
would be superfluous. In these days, when every accessible corner of Europe may be said to
have a special literature of its own, it is interesting to look back and realize what were
the difficulties and discomforts which beset a traveller half a century ago.
It is further interesting to note that the ‘Handbooks’ were
not the work of a mere stay-at-home student, but of one who determined to leave no stone
unturned in acquiring a personal knowledge of the districts he was engaged in describing.
Mr. Murray’s companions on his principal
journeys were
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Mr. Wm. Brockedon, the artist, or Mr. Torrie, a nephew of Professor Jamieson, whose Geological lectures Mr.
Murray had attended while a student at Edinburgh University.
These extracts have been selected as being fair specimens of a large mass
of correspondence, written by Mr. John Murray to his
family during his journeys abroad.
Bordeaux, Hotel de France, July 9th, 1830.
“My first halt after Marseilles was made at Aix; the place is not
interesting, but the neighbourhood is, from a Geological point of view, which was my
object in remaining there a night and a day. . . . A walk of about a league all the way
up hill under a très grand soleil, brought me to the scene of action,
a mine from which gypsum is extracted for making plaster-of-Paris. I descended and
remained sometime in the subterranean passages, which I found agreeably cool. I was
told by the workmen that the place was quite overrun with mice, which is curious,
considering that their only means of support consists in the droppings of oil from the
lamps of the miners, and an accidental crust of bread skilfully extracted from the
pocket of a jacket by chance thrown off to facilitate the labours of its owner. From
these quarries, which were explored two years ago by Messrs. Murchison and Lyell, I procured some curious specimens of fossil fish and insects,
which I am bringing along with me. . . .”
Venice, August 7th, 1831.
“. . . Last night I made an excursion to the Armenian convent on
the Island of San Lazzaro, to visit the Padre Pasquale Aucher, he had not by
any means forgotten you, and asked very kindly after you. He conducted us over the
convent, snowing us the library in which Lord Byron
used to receive his lessons from him. He has recently had for pupils Lord and Lady
William Russell, to the former he has dedicated a translation
of Milton’s ‘Paradise Lost’ which he has recently made,
and which has been printed at the press of the convent. This he also showed to us. I
should fear that this, though perhaps a useful, is not a very profitable part of the
establishment. He lastly brought us
seats in the neat little garden, which has been formed in the space enclosed by the
cloisters (here coffee and lemonade was prepared for us), entertaining us in the
meantime with his very agreeable conversation. He continues to speak English very well,
and is warm in praise of the whole nation, with the exception of Lady Morgan, who has lugged him into her ‘Italy’ rather unceremoniously. One
occurrence only he said had given him annoyance during his visit to London, that was
the being mistaken for one of the witnesses against the Queen, whose trial was going on
at the time: considering the Father’s reverend station, together with the gravity
of his long beard, this was a most unlucky mistake. However he was enabled to make it
understood that though he came from Venice, he was not asked to leave, and had no
knowledge of the business. He is aware that a preface was written by Lord
Byron for the Armenian Grammar: it was suppressed at Father
Pasquale’s request because it contained some very strong passages against the
Sultan, the Sovereign of his native country, who might easily have retorted on his
friends and kindred for such an insult. He has given me a copy of his Armenian
Milton for you, together with his own portrait. He received us
with a kindness and good nature which was the more remarkable, as he is, I fancy, very
much pestered with visits from English people, and especially in our case, as I found
that our visit was paid at an hour when, by the convent regulations, the door ought to
have been shut, and at last he was obliged fairly to turn us out and the key upon
us.”
Salzburg, August 20th, 1831.
“. . . My last letter was put into the post at Laibach, as I was
unluckily too late to despatch it from Trieste. We left the latter place yesterday
week; before I set out I had the satisfaction of being introduced to Lord Byron’s friend, Mr.
Barry of Genoa, who has lately come to reside at Trieste. As soon as I
heard his name I exerted myself to find him out; he was in bed, unwell, but got up on
hearing my name, but on this account I was obliged to curtail my visit. He was very
civil, showed me some of Byron’s letters and papers, among
them one written by Lord Byron in Fletcher’s name, giving a ludicrous account of his own death,
addressed to Hobhouse as being one of his executioners.
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He describes his master’s patience on his death-bed; he
only d——d his friends once or twice, and wished that Kinnaird’s Play might be d——d as well as
himself. Barry has, I believe, the last letter
Byron ever wrote, dated April 9, also a miniature taken at
Genoa—in which he is represented thin and wan-looking, wearing a foraging cap
with a gold band, and a plaid (the Gordon) jacket.”
Munich, August 31st, 1831.
“. . . . From Salzburg we took the Vienna road in order to reach
the fall of the Traun, which Sir H. Davy had
already brought into notice in England. We found the road crowded with people hastening
from Vienna, evidently in alarm for the cholera, which at one time was supposed to have
actually made its appearance in that city, several persons having died suddenly and of
very suspicious cholics. The retreat of the Imperial family to Schonbrun also probably
strengthened the report, though I believe it was unfounded. The terror of the disease
is spreading through Germany. Within these few days a cordon has been established on
the Bavarian border, and had we been at Vienna we should certainly not have been
allowed to pass through it. The Austrian Government, in their paternal care for the
people, have published a paper of advice, recommending frequency of ablutions, both of
person and habitation, and to abstain from butter, old cheese, green apples, and things
sour. I suppose there have been nearly a hundred different brochures published
respecting this pestilence. Remedies of all sorts have been put forth, one of which is
no other than Dr. Sangrado’s
vizpine water, and not a few are collections of prayers for the
aversion of the calamity. Those which are good are almost entirely indebted to English
publications for their matter. The experience of German physicians confirms the notion
of its being epidemic (conveyed by air), and no cordon, however strong, has as yet
stood against it. Its ravages in Hungary are said to be terrible. The peasants there
are neither clean nor well fed; they are very closely packed in their houses, and
generally there is no more than one medical man to attend to a population of eight or
ten thousand. . .”
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Munich, September 18, 1831.
“I see that the news of the cholera being at Vienna is
contradicted, the cases of sickness which have occurred there turn out to be of a
different character, and health passports are again issued to travellers. The
precautions taken by the Government are quite wonderful. There is an overseer appointed
to every house in Vienna who daily goes over them, sees that they are regularly
fumigated, and gives to each individual a drop of some preparation.”
Munich, October 1st, 1831.
“Within the last fortnight Munich has been gradually filling with
refugees flying before the cholera. Though the information respecting Vienna in my last
was correct, yet it appears a wonderful change took place two days afterwards. After a
remarkable storm of rain, which lasted forty-eight hours, with great violence, the
cholera, which to all appearance had been smothered, burst forth with great fury. The
newspapers will inform you of the number of deaths which, however, considering the
population, is not very great. It has not yet made much progress on its way hither, and
probably will not arrive here before Christmas. The Government, however, have long
since begun to take precaution against it, and the shop windows are filled with broad
belts of flannel, called cholera belts, which are intended to be tied round the stomach
as a preventive. Among the illustrious refugees is the Vienna Baron Rothschild, who seems to take great care of
himself, never going out, even in the hot weather, which we have at present, without
his great-coat; but he is evidently prepared to cut and run on the first alarm. The
hotel was thrown into great confusion last week by the announcement that a Polish
nobleman with a family, a train of thirty persons, were to arrive on a stated day. At
the appointed time they made their appearance in the town; landaus with imperials above
and coffers below; lacqueys behind and before; barouches, britskas, and chaises; a
complete caravan dislodged from their quarters in an Austrian halting-place, by this
formidable foe. It is said that Prince
Metternich’s family is expected.”
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Liege, November 6th, 1833.
“Early next morning we crossed the frontier of Bavaria, which in
this part appears a dull country, previous to reaching Passau, the situation of which
town, at the junction of the Inn with the Danube, hemmed in by commanding heights, is
remarkable. You will imagine what are the désagrémens of travelling in this part of the Continent when I tell you that, among other
things, the coach constantly stops in the middle of the night, or early in the morning,
at a place where it is met by a cross coach coming from a different quarter, and in
consequence of the irregularity of travelling, it is detained at this inconvenient time
for two or three hours. This happened to us at Ratisbon; here the coach arrived at
about half-past three in the morning; our slumbers were all broken, and we were turned
out into the room of a dreary inn, to wait till seven. It was useless to think of going
to bed, and absurd to go out in the dark, so I awaited the approach of day in a sort of
half-dose. Just because it was wanted, the sun delayed his appearance for about an hour
longer than usual, and when he did appear, did little good, owing to the thick mist
which lay heavily over the town, and reminded me almost of a London fog. I groped my
way in the dark to the old cathedral, where the priest was mumbling matins to a few old
women, over several of whom I stumbled. The uncertain light of a few tapers, aided by
the approaching dawn, enabled me to form some notion of the grandeur of the building,
and also to examine the exterior of the old town hall, which is only remarkable for
being in former days the meeting-house of the German Diet.”
Cologne, Sunday, August 30th, 1834.
“I pushed on to Spa by a new road, and another beautiful valley,
that of the Vesdre. Spa is out of fashion; the English have deserted it for the Brunnen
of Nassau, and Leopold has not patronised it as the King of
Holland used to do. It is, however, a pretty spot, and interesting from the
recollections of our forefathers who used to visit it; indeed, it is from this place
that all mineral springs, even down to the Beulah, get the name of Spa. I wished to see
the routine of the bather’s life;
but no sooner had I arrived than it was dinned into my ears that an Englishman had just
made an important discovery of a cave with stalactites which was a kind of world
wonder! Upon the strength of this, I hired a horse after dinner, and, taking a guide to
show me the way, set out over a horrid cross road a distance of nine miles. It was dusk
when I arrived; a boy was sent with me as a guide, bearing a candle. We passed through
an old cave or grotto, which has been known for some years, till at last the boy,
stopping at a crack or gash in the floor, said, ‘There, that is the way into the
new grotto’; and, taking up a stone, he let it fall into the cleft. After some
minutes, down it came with a splash into the water. The fellow then said, ‘Ah, I
have been once, and I don’t intend to go again; will you go?’ With such a
useful companion in case of need, and my own bad eyesight, I did not care to run the
risk, so I returned. At the mouth of the cave I met a large party, consisting of the
discoverer himself, an Englishman of the strange name of Hoy, his
servant, an artist, and many guides. I immediately spoke to them, and asked if I might
accompany them, to which Mr. H. consented. I went back to a sort of inn, borrowed a
blouse, and bespoke a bed, knowing that the Englishman intended to pass some hours in
the cave. When we reached the hole, I found, by the aid of several lights, the top of a
ladder just peeping out of the bottom of it, so that resting my hands on each side of
the cleft, I could just reach it with the end of my toe. The descent was not, after
all, so very difficult or dangerous, only the hole is at present so narrow that there
is not room for the body to pass through along with the ladder, so that you can only
put one foot upon it at first, and swing the body round, and cling by the hands till
the narrow gap is passed. The worst was that, after all this—after tumbling over
rocks, climbing through a passage, in one place so low that for twenty yards it was
necessary to crawl, not on all fours, but on my belly—after scrambling over a
subterranean river, and nearly breaking my leg in a hole, into which it was fortunate
my body did not go, along with the other leg—the cave was no great thing to see
after all; but perhaps I am no judge, having seen Adelsberg, the finest cave in the
world. Still, there are a few fine stalactites in this, and I was amused with the
adventure. As soon as I 470 | MEMOIRS OF JOHN MURRAY | |
had satisfied my curiosity, having been
nearly three hours underground exploring the passages—so extensive are
they—I took my leave, and—as I was very anxious to get back in time to see
the Redoute at Spa that night—set out over the moors and through the dark lanes,
with nothing to light me but the stars above and the glow-worms beneath, after the wind
had blown out the lanthorn which was given to my guide at the inn. The road was so bad
by day that there were very few places where one could trot, so you may suppose we
could not make rapid progress in the dark. We did not get back till half-past eleven,
when the Redoute was shut, and nearly all Spa in bed.”
Bourges, August 12th, 1841.
“Angers, where my journey ended, is a very antique town, and
pleased me much, though modern improvements, quays, and houses looking like bandboxes
from their whiteness and newness, are destroying in part its original character.
Besides the cathedral full of painted glass, here is one of the sternest, loftiest,
largest, and best-preserved castles I ever saw. Its seventeen towers, built of slate
and layers of white stone, which make them look as though hooped round, rise 80 feet
above the river, separated by a yawning fosse from the rest of the town. They show you
within it the remains of the palace where good King
Rene (see ‘Quentin
Durward’), father of Margaret of
Anjou, was born, and in the Devil’s Tower the oubliettes down
which prisoners were cast. Here also, beside the castle, is the old Military
Academy—now degraded to a barrack, and its curious carvings of houses, coats of
arms, &c., defaced—where the Duke of
Wellington was educated. From Angers, which lies on a tributary of the
Loire, I travelled by land, but I soon came on the prettiest part of that river, near
Saumur, passing upon the top of a lofty dike extending as far as Orleans, raised long
ago to repress the river. Acacia-hedges, vines, and walnut-trees, with orchards and
rich crops of corn, cover the country. Saumur also has a castle, which, together with
its houses, is white, while the general character of Angers is black, so it makes a
pleasing and smiling contrast. Near this I saw one of the most curious Druidical
remains in France; a hut or house formed of huge blocks of unhewn stone placed
upright to form the walls, with
others laid flat above for the roof, just as you would make a house of cards. . . . I
turned aside to Fontevrault, memorable as the burial-place of our Kings Richard Cœur de Lion and his father Henry II. The vast church in which they lie, situated in a
quiet valley, was, as usual, pillaged and ransacked at the Revolution, and these
statues, interesting as portraits, were torn from their tombs and broken. They now lie
in a dark corner with mutilated visages and broken noses, enclosed by bolts and bars
and grilles, for the church has been converted into a prison, which is much to be
deplored. After having come a considerable distance on a cab, hired expressément, I was very nearly turned away by the
pert daughter of the gaoler, who shut the gate in my face, because the Minister of the
Interior had lately published an ordinance prohibiting visitors entering prisons; but
by perseverance, and explaining that I did not care a fig for the prisoners, but only
for the chapel, I won my way.
“My day’s journey ended at Chinon, a little town on the
River Vienne, with a castle of enormous extent, now one vast heap of ruins, but
originally the residence of our Kings Henry II. and Richard I., who held it as Counts
of Anjou, and afterwards of the Kings of France. It stands on a most commanding
platform of rock, divided into three parts by very deep fosses cut in the rock. In one
pile of crumbling, roofless walls, where the position of once-stately rooms without
number is shown by broken chimneys and windows, tradition has recorded that Joan of Arc was first introduced to Charles VII., and, distinguishing him from among his
courtiers, led him to the recess in the thickness of the wall, apart from the rest,
where she revealed to him things which the chroniclers say convinced him of her mission
from heaven. Here are many dungeon towers in which the Grand Master of the Templars,
Jacques de Molay, and the four chiefs of the
order may have lingered; and from another tower ran a secret passage by which
Charles VII. visited his mistress, Agnes Sorel, in the house which he had built for her outside the walls.
At Tours I was in the land of ‘Quentin
Durward,’ and one of my first proceedings was to visit the house of
Tristan l’Hermite—the hangman of
Louis XI.—in one of its narrow streets; it
is a curious building, certainly, of that time, but I believe the chief authority for
attributing it to that
472 | MEMOIRS OF JOHN MURRAY | |
personage is, that along its brick walls,
among the ornaments of its windows and doors, runs a rope, well-carved, twisted at
intervals into a very pretty knot remarkably like the noose of a halter. I climbed up
to the top of its turret stair, which, rising above the neighbouring houses, curiously
enough commands a view of Louis XI.’s residence,
Plessis-les-Tours. To that ill-omened house of horrors, of bigotry and wickedness, I
next walked; all its fosses and walls, watch-towers and pitfalls, so well described by
Sir Walter Scott, have disappeared under the
plough; and the castle itself (a very small fragment of which only remains, converted
into a dwelling, with a tower stair at one corner), so far from possessing either the
picturesque or frowning aspect of a castle, is a mean, red-brick house, with a tiled
roof nearly as high as its walls, and large sash-windows groined with stone. Yet this
was the style of building at the period, partly corresponding with that of Hampton
Court. However, at the end of the garden I was shown one vaulted dungeon in which the
lady of the house told me was Cardinal
Balue’s prison, and her little daughter conducted me to a
neighbouring cottage, where, in an outhouse lumbered with empty casks, I discovered a
small vaulted chapel, where, doubtless, Louis used to say some of
his numerous prayers. To give an idea of his religious notions, here is a specimen I
lately met with. I do not think it is mentioned in the novel. It is written from
Plessis to the Prior of a distant church: ‘Maître Pierre, mon
ami, je vous prie, comme je puis, de prier incessamment Dieu et Notre Dame de
Sales que leur plaisir soit de m’envoyer la fièvre quarte, car
j’ai une maladie dont les physiciens disent que je ne puis guérir
sans l’avoir, et quand je l’aurai je vous le ferai savoir
incontinent.’ He probably had his wish, for a little while
after he writes to beg the Prior will pray our Lady of
Sales ‘qu’elle me donne guérison
parfaite.’”
Bayonne, August 28th, 1841.
“. . . My companion and I have just returned from making a dash
into Spain! This will probably surprise you, as I gave you no previous notice, but as
the scheme was of my suggesting, I did not know whether Torrie would
like it;
he however was nothing loath, and I am happy to say the expedition has turned out
successfully and afforded both of us much pleasure. As the inducements to the journey,
besides that of having a glimpse of a country and people entirely new to us, I may
mention my desire to explore the farthest roots of the Pyrenees on the W., where they
push themselves into the sea, and to visit the extreme S.W. country of France, a
district not yet Trollopized, and indeed
scarcely described by any English traveller, but interesting as being the country of
the Basques. I had also some curiosity to see the effects which war leaves upon a
country, the frontier of Spain bordering on France, being as you know, the battle-field
of the late war between Carlists and Christines, and I return blessing the happy star
which exempts our little island from the horrors of such a scourge. The sight of it
would do good to Joseph Hume, and all such as
vote against our Army and Navy Estimates, which, under Providence, have the effect of
keeping all enemies at a distance from our door. We quitted this place (where there is
little to be seen except the Adour river, which the Duke of
Wellington’s army crossed a mile below the town, just out of reach
of the guns of the citadel, one of the strongest in France) yesterday morning, on the
top of a diligence which runs from this to St. Sebastian, established within the last
eight months; all communication having been stopped while the war lasted. The little
river Bidassoa, which the Duke of Wellington crossed also in his
triumphant entrance into France from Spain, driving Marshal
Soult before him, divides the two countries. A little below the bridge
is an earth bank tufted with grass, a mere strip of ground on which one or two cows
were feeding, called Ile des Faisans, memorable because upon it, as a piece of neutral
ground, Cardinal Mazarin and the Spanish General
Haro negotiated the marriage of Louis
XIV. A pavilion was erected in the centre, and approaches were made from
both sides by bridges for the Ambassadors and their suites to meet. Inundations have
carried off a large part of the isle, which has also been cut and pared by the peasants
in order to lay the earth on their fields, so that in a few years probably it will not
exist. Scarcely had we passed beyond the fortified house—flanked with loop-holes
and trussed by enormous stone buttresses at the end of the bridge, forming 474 | MEMOIRS OF JOHN MURRAY | |
the Spanish Custom House, and guarded by soldiers of that
country, who, in their blue uniforms and white duck trousers and gaiters, look neater
than the French—than we began to see traces of the war in ruined houses; and on
the approach to Irun, the first village about two miles off, we passed a large house of
rude masonry by the roadside, the lower windows of which were built up with stones so
as to leave only a narrow loop-hole in the middle to fire through. It formed a
fore-post for General Evans, who finally succeeded in taking the
town. Some of the most conspicuously placed houses in Irun are literally peppered and
pocked from top to bottom with shot-marks, while in others the damage is concealed by a
coat of whitewash, serving, as a Spanish cloak often does, to conceal rags and rents
below it.
* * * *
“The postilions who drove us had in one or two instances been out
with Don Carlos—one still wore the military great-coat
bearing C.V. buttons now turned into a boxcoat; they urge on their horses and
mules—for both occur mixed in one team—by calling each by its name and
scolding them with volleys of Spanish oaths—quite different from and twice as bad
as the French. To complete the contrast, and fully assure us we were in Spain, we had
not advanced eight miles before out started from among a party of peasants assembled by
the roadside, on the approach of our conveyance, a pair of wild-looking but athletic
fellows in blue caps and blouses, with heavy guns slung behind their backs, and ran by
the roadside for a whole stage keeping up with the horses. These were miquellates, or
police officers appointed to escort and protect us from robbers—as in the present
state of the country there are many wild fellows about, and the Zaragossa diligence was
robbed a few days ago to a very large amount, taken from the different passengers. In
our case there appeared to be no risk of such an adventure; but really the country
seems made for robbery and war, a very thieves’ Paradise. The houses, great,
heavy, square flat-roofed buildings with thick walls and small windows, are ready-made
forts, every little window commanding the road looks like a loop-hole, and the country
is so tossed about with hills, enclosed with winding, defile valleys, having sudden
turns, so scattered with mounds and banks, and sprinkled with tufts, bushes,
| THE CONSEQUENCES OF WAR. | 475 |
hedges, and bits of old
wall—an ambuscade might be formed at every five yards. . . . After toiling up a
long and very steep ascent we came in sight of St. Sebastian—the Gibraltar of the
north of Spain—a tall, rocky eminence, with a crown of embrazured walls bristling
with cannon on its top, rising out of the sea in the middle of a bay, which extends two
hilly arms on either side. A tongue of sand, along which the road is carried, joins the
rock to the land, and at the end of the causeway, which every advancing tide contracts
in width to a musket-shot, lies the small town, nestling under the tall rock and also
surrounded by very strong and lofty fortifications. Its aspect as you descend the hill
towards the sea is very striking, but our attention was partly withdrawn from it by the
objects in the fore-ground. The whole slope of the bay towards the fortress, forming a
curve of high hills extending for five or six miles, is sprinkled over with cottages
and convents, and with the exception of one or two which have been repaired or rebuilt
in the last eighteen months, not one remains entire; the roofs smashed in or entirely
gone, the inside gutted of every bit of timber, with heaps of stones, already
grass-grown, lying where once were hearthstones and chambers; the windows empty or
built up with loopholes; the outer walls scarified by shot, except where some
cannon-ball or shell had gone clean through, leaving either a hole or prostrating the
walls entirely. Such is the aspect of the country within a radius of three miles from
St. Sebastian—such the consequences of war. These houses were good points for
annoying the fortress, and were on this account occupied by the Carlists in besieging
it; they, dislodged by its cannon, were sometimes buried under the ruins, but always
burning or gutting the habitation before they quitted it.”
Barrèges, September 7th, 1841.
“. . . . It happens that the watering-places of the Pyrenees are
so placed as to form excellent halting-places for mere tourists, while in passing from
one to the other, or in short excursions, you see all the finest scenery. The number of
English we have seen here is remarkably small, I cannot help thinking because so little
is known of the country. There is literally no tolerable guide. I know no district so
destitute, and we are obliged to feel our way at every step by gleaning oral
information. Torrie is a most invaluable
476 | MEMOIRS OF JOHN MURRAY | |
and delightful companion. It is like seeing with another pair of
eyes to have him at my elbow, and it is not a little agreeable to revive old
recollections and associations of former journeys. After having been so many years
separated, there was yet a question, on once more travelling together, how far our
tastes might agree. The result has proved that no change has occurred, and he has so
much good sense and good temper that it is impossible, I am sure, to find a more
agreeable companion. Owing to his long illness, however, he still feels the effects of
his rheumatism in his knees to such an extent that he cannot take very long walks, so
that we have hitherto not made any arduous expeditions. The longest walk we have taken
was from Cauterets to a small lake called Lac de Gaube, about twelve miles there and
back, through fine scenery, but up hill all the way. The lake has a melancholy interest
from the death of a newly-married English pair—who arriving at this lonely spot,
where there is only a solitary fishing hut. in the absence of the fisherman got into
his wretched ticklish canoe for a row—when in the middle of the lake the boat
upset, how, no one knows—and they were drowned, without any eye to mark their
fate even. In toiling up the steep path, Torrie’s sharp eye
discovered the recent footmarks of a bear’s paws, claw and heel as distinct as
possible imprinted probably not more than three or four hours before. Snow had fallen
in the night, which had probably caused Bruin to descend lower than usual in search of
food. We made the pretty little village of Luz our headquarters for a day or two, on
account of its central situation for making several excursions. The chief of these is
to the Cirque de Gavarnie, distant about fifteen miles. We set out on horseback soon
after six, with a guide, Jacques, recommended by our worthy little
fat landlady, Madame Caseaux, who gives almost the best dinners to
be found in the Pyrenees.
“Favoured by brilliant sunshine and fresh morning air, we toiled
up the valley, past the edge of precipices, down which the eye looked plump 250 or 300
feet into the green and frothy river, agonized within the narrow cleft, barely opened
for it between the rocks; below, we trotted over many narrow bridges of planks,
suspended over gulfs and cataracts, and galloped by waterfalls innumerable, many of
them bestridden by water-mills four or five in a row, not
| SCRAMBLES IN THE PYRENEES. | 477 |
much larger than boxes, looking at a distance like
beads on a white thread. About half-way in descending a hill towards a village called
Gedres, where the gorge expands into a basin-shaped valley, we had a fine view of the
mountain called Marboré, which rises above the Cirque de Gavarnie, all covered
with snow, and beside it we saw equally clearly the far-famed Brèche de Roland.
This is a square gap in the wall of rock, forming the crest of the mountain, and made
by the Paladin en Chef Orlando, with one smashing
blow of his sword when he passed over into Spain to fight the Moors. We pulled up and
eyed it attentively; I with my glass. From where we stood it looked a mere notch, or
like the gap left in an otherwise well-filled jaw, by the loss of a single tooth. Yet
we gazed on it with interest from the story, and its name, and its great elevation,
9000 feet above the sea, and Torrie advised me
to make the ascent, he of course, not being equal to it. The idea had occurred to me
already; the ambition of the exploit, and my desire to benefit the readers of the
‘Handbook’ (should there be any readers) prevailed, and I proposed to our
guide. The suggestion came unexpectedly upon him. We had started one hour and a half
too late, he said, and it would take four hours’ hard climbing from the foot of
the ascent. In short he seemed very lukewarm. Still the ascent
was at once decided on. At Gavarnie we were provided with crampons, spikes for the
feet, and with spiked batons, which a wild dishevelled lass bore, scampering after our
ponies about three miles from the village as far as the Cirque. This is a natural
amphitheatre, surrounded not by mountains, as valleys commonly are, but by a circle of
precipices, rising like a wall on all sides, save one where there is a break to let out
the river formed by the drainage of many glaciers, and of twelve or sixteen streamlets
which descend over the walls of rock in falls like white strings. In the Cirque of
Gavarnie, its walls are divided into three or four steps or terraces, and between each
terrace is a glacier of ice and snow heaped up—the whole surmounted by numerous
sharp snowy peaks. As a scale to show you the dimensions of the Cirque, there is one
fall which descends in one white cord, down the face of a precipice 1200 to 1400 feet
high. Yet there is a singular ocular deception; you arrive at the entrance, and think
the waterfall close at hand, but you toil on over rough fallen stones 478 | MEMOIRS OF JOHN MURRAY | |
and glacier for nearly half an hour before you reach its foot,
the distance being a long mile. I have now got to the foot of the mountain, and the
very verge of my paper, and in consequence must break off; but I promise to continue my
narrative immediately on another sheet.”
With regard to the following letter, the reader must bear in mind that it
was written sixteen years before the Alpine Club came into existence, at a time when the
science of mountaineering, as now understood and practised, was in its earliest infancy.
Bagnères de Bigorre, September 8th, 1841.
“Before quitting the village of Gavarnie, by Tome’s advice
I fortified myself with breakfast—some trout and a very tough chop, washed down
with a small quantity of red wine and water, but the wine being very bad, I did not
take much of it. “But,” you exclaim, “you have brought us to the foot
of the mountain; why don’t you carry us up?” The fact is, I cannot see my
way up, and neither you, nor any other person, coming to the Cirque for the first time,
would divine that there was any way up. It is all wall and precipice, perpendicular all
the way round. Jacques, however—the sturdy guide of eighteen
years’ standing, who has been up to the Brèche twice this year, and four or
five times last, and more than forty times in his life—is leading the way
steadily over stripes of dirty glacier and heaps of pointed stones fallen from above
since the Creation, and perhaps part before it, while the world was a chaos. He,
however, makes steadily for the right-hand corner, picking his way where no path is
visible, to a slightly-projecting buttress of rock, seemingly as abrupt and vertical as
any other part. Here, however, he commences literally escalading the precipice, and as
the undertaking is now not to be avoided—no shirking, your humble servant set to
work in earnest to imitate Jacques, and find his way. Where we began, the rock is
literally a sheer wall; but, being composed of shivery limestone—a kind of
slate—it breaks off into splintery edges, which serve, with care, as steps. I do
not profess to be especially courageous, or provided with strong nerve, or endowed with
remarkable strength or
| ASCENT OF THE BRÈCHE DE ROLAND. | 479 |
steadiness of head, and felt it was only by firmly riveting my attention to the object
before me, the very spot on which I was to place my foot, that I could avoid the
distraction and tendency to giddiness produced by a sheer glance down a precipice
hundreds of feet beneath me. In many places the steps were very wide apart, or instead
of a projection offering a hold for the foot, nothing but a smooth space of slate
presented itself; now and then my blindness prevented my discovering the proper steps,
and I then had to feel my way, aided by the guide’s instruction, and grasping
firm hold by the hands of some projection above. Here the spiked pole was much in the
way, and I was tempted to throw it aside—it was well I did not. The guide made
his way steadily upwards, putting one foot before the other in the same even steps, as
though regularly beating time, but always ascending, sometimes up a steep bank of
greensward, at another up a projecting buttress of the limestone rock, the strata of
which, being almost vertical, resembled the leaves of a book, only quite ragged round
the edges. In this way we toiled up for two good hours—of incessant hard
staircase work without intermission of level ground. The heat was intense, and I felt a
constant throbbing in the drums of my ears; once or twice we stopped to draw breath,
and it was a glorious sight to look around upon the Cirque, and the snowy ridges
surmounting it; it was a glorious sight now to look down upon the precipices and
waterfalls beneath my feet, which just before I had gazed up at with aching head.
“After each twenty minutes of hard toil I looked round upon the
great waterfall, the 1200 feet cascade, as a measure of my own progress in
ascending—and it was a tough job to get the mastery of him, and look down upon
him, I assure you. The only sound in this wilderness hitherto had been the murmur of
these falling waters, but about twelve, when the sun had become powerful, a distant
report like thunder attracted my attention, followed by another; it was the roar of the
avalanches stirred by the heat, and a very respectable broadside the Pyrenees kept up
that afternoon, not much inferior to the Alps.
“At the height we had now attained—about 1500 feet from the
bottom of the rock—we were met by the cold wind from the glacier, and very
refreshing it was, I assure
480 | MEMOIRS OF JOHN MURRAY | |
you. Below us still yawned the gaping
Cirque, apparently so close under our feet that we might throw a stone into it. The
guide traced Torrie’s progress along the
bottom, but he was reduced to such an emmet in the depth below that my eyes could not
discover him. Above our heads now opened out a wide expanse of snow and glacier,
covering a very steep slope, and surmounted by the ridge of rock in which is the rent
of Roland’s Brèche. The glacier is a high steep plane, like the roof of a
house, and the most difficult part of the task is to ascend it. I sat down on the last
rock rising, as it were, on the shore of this sea of ice, and after the guide had tied
the crampons very firmly upon my feet, I grasped my pole and started. I was very tired
by this time, and the steepness, together with the weight of the crampons, to which I
was unaccustomed, and the snow hanging to them, rendered it very laborious; add to
this, a cold rain and sleet came on, which made the snow and ice still more slippery
and the foothold more difficult. As I toiled on, keeping as well as I could nearly up
with the guide, and treading in his footsteps, two other travellers, who had started
some hours before us, passed us, swiftly descending. How I envied them; but
half-an-hour’s good hard work still remained for me. From the slipperiness of the
snow (which had recently fallen), and the fatigue I felt, my steps no longer continued
firm, my feet slipped from under me, and, after one or two slips, down I slid like an
arrow, traversing in half a minute what had taken a quarter of an hour to surmount;
indeed, I was in a fairway to the bottom of the glacier, but, recollecting some of my
Swiss experience, I threw myself on my back, stretched wide my feet, digging in the
heels, and driving the spike of my baton deep into the snow, and thus shortly brought
myself to an anchor. In an instant Jacques was down from the
height he had reached, beside me, and, laying hold of my hand, with stout arm and firm
foot soon led me to the top of the ascent. The next stage of the business is to cross
another division of the glacier nearly in a straight line, scarcely ascending at all,
but the angle at which it lies is very much steeper than that passed already, so that I
do not think it would be possible, except for a very skilful mountaineer, to ascend it,
and the foot that once slipped in crossing it would go irretrievably to the bottom.
Here my guide made me precede him, and gave me special injunctions to lift up my feet well, and set each foot down
with a stamp, so as to make a good hole in the snow, sticking in my pole to a
considerable depth before each step, adding after his admonitions,
‘Parcequ’il y a de danger ici.’ This
mauvais pas was passed happily,
safely, and quickly, and a few steps more brought me within the Brèche de Roland.
The little ridge which I had seen below, eight miles off, like the blade of a small saw
inserted in a grooved handle, now rose before me a mountainous wall of rock 300 feet
high, and about 50 feet thick in the gap. The gap of Roland itself had expanded to a
width of 180 feet. Before me, looking through this singular window, was Spain, a most
uninviting prospect in the foreground of rugged ridges, and bare mountains, and valleys
filled with stones and snow. The horizon, up to which rises the vast plain of Arragon,
dimly seen in very clear weather, was now concealed. On the French side the Vignemale,
the highest mountain in Southern France, and covered with glaciers, was also partly
hidden. But except these all was clear, the sleety rain had ceased, the sun shone
brightly forth, and a hundred peaks rose around me. Still, the absorbing feature is the
Brèche itself, and the colossal wall, rising so high and so
abruptly—literally a wall in proportion to the mountain, with slopes down on both
sides like a house-roof. It is like the crested mane rising from the neck of a Grecian
horse. The threshold of the Brèche shares in this peculiar character, so that I
sat astride of the rocky ridge which forms the boundary line of two mighty kingdoms,
with one leg in France and the other in Spain. The gratification of having succeeded,
the elasticity of the mountain air, and a crust of bread with a piece of prepared
chocolate cake, washed down by a draught from Jacques’
previously-despised wooden bottle, dissipated all fatigue. Jacques
was distressed that he had no cup, but one or two good hearty pulls at the
bottle-mouth, time about, and a couple of cigaritos—genuine from St.
Sebastian—cemented our friendship, and we became great allies. The Brèche,
notwithstanding its difficulty of access, serves as a pass from a small Spanish village
into France, and my guide pointed out to me a nook in the rock where a flask of wine
had been deposited by a party of three wild but handsome and Murillo-ish shepherds,
whom we had met conducting two priests.
“We had accomplished the ascent in three hours, the time
482 | MEMOIRS OF JOHN MURRAY | |
usually taken being four; the descent was effected in less than
two, which is equally good speed.
“The first glacier was passed slowly and cautiously; the second
we glided down in the fashion of a montagne Russe, resting on
our spiked staffs to check the rapidity of our progress, I was right glad to get rid of
the crampons when beyond the slope. The rest of the descent we leaped, trotted, walked,
or scrambled down in the time mentioned, taking our time about those craggy buttresses
of precipitous rock. I was surprised to find how nearly the guide followed the same
track in descending; though quite imperceptible at a distance to my eye, yet I found
myself treading on the very same stones I had trod on in mounting. I had agreed with
Torrie that he should ride back to Luz
quietly, and await me there, but not be surprised if he did not see me till next
morning; but, having got through the walk so well and quickly, and finding my guide
true to the backbone, I determined to ride back that night. Accordingly, after
half-an-hour’s rest and a cup of coffee at Gavarnie, we were once more on
horseback, and in less than three hours’ time the fourteen miles of mountain road
was passed, and the courtyard of good and fat Madame
Cazeaux’ inn was resounding to the crack of my whip. I was warmly
welcomed by Torrie, as you may suppose, and after a supper of tea
and fowl, retired to a good sound sleep, with no other discomfort than of considerable
chafing, which, considering I do not think I ever rode thirty miles before in one day,
was to be expected. The last four or five was in the dark, but I made the guide ride
between me and the precipices.”
The first of Mr. John
Murray’s Handbooks to the Continent, published 1836, included Holland,
Belgium, and North Germany, and was followed at short intervals by South Germany,
Switzerland—in which he was assisted by his intimate friend and fellow-traveller,
William Brockedon, the artist, who was then
engaged in preparing his own splendid work on ‘The Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers of the
Alps’—and France. These were all written
by Mr. Murray himself; but, as the
series proceeded, it was necessary to call in the aid of other writers and travellers.
Switzerland, which appeared in 1838, was followed in 1839 by Norway, Sweden, and Denmark,
and in 1840 by the Handbook to the East, the work of Mr. H. Parish,
aided by Mr. Godfrey Levinge. In 1842 Sir Francis Palgrave completed the Guide to Northern
Italy, while Central and Southern Italy were entrusted to Mr.
Octavian Blewitt, for many years Secretary of the Royal Literary Fund.
This is not the place to give a detailed account of the developments which
have been made in this well-known series since the death of the elder Mr. Murray. Suffice it to say, that the originator of the
Handbooks has been fortunate enough to secure such able colleagues as Richard Ford for Spain, Sir
Gardner Wilkinson for Egypt, Dr. Porter for
Palestine, Sir George Bowen for Greece, Sir Lambert Playfair for Algiers and the Mediterranean,
and Mr. George Dennis for Sicily, &c.
Father Pasquale Aucher (1774-1827)
Of the Mekhitarist Convent in Venice; he tutored Byron in Armenian and collaborated with
him on an Armenian grammar (1817).
Cardinal Jean Balue (1421 c.-1491)
French statesman who conspired with Charles the Bold against Louis XI, for which he was
imprisoned in an iron cage (1469-80).
Charles F. Barry (1831 fl.)
Byron's Genoa banker, friend, and correspondent. He was unwilling to share the
correspondence with Thomas Moore.
Octavian Blewitt (1810-1884)
Writer of handbooks for travellers for John Murray and from 1839 secretary of the Royal
Literary Fund.
Edmund Boyce (1827 fl.)
Author of
The Belgian Traveller: being a complete Guide through Belgium
and Holland (1823 etc.).
William Brockedon (1787-1854)
English landscape painter who composed the text for
Finden's
Illustrations of the Life and Works of Lord Byron, 3 vols. (1833-34).
Charles VII, King of France (1403-1461)
King of France; spurred by Joan of Arc he expelled the English from France and ended the
Hundred Years War.
Sir Humphry Davy, baronet (1778-1829)
English chemist and physicist, inventor of the safety lamp; in Bristol he knew Cottle,
Wordsworth, Coleridge, and Southey; he was president of the Royal Society (1820).
George Dennis (1814-1898)
Archaeologist in Etruria; he published
Handbook for Travellers in
Sicily (1864).
Johann Gottfried Ebel (1764-1830)
The author of the first travel guide to Switzerland,
Anleitung, auf die
nützlichste und genussvollste Art in der Schweitz zu reisen, 2 vols (1793) sold in
Britain as
The Travellers Guide through Switzerland.
William Fletcher (1831 fl.)
Byron's valet, the son of a Newstead tenant; he continued in service to the end of the
poet's life, after which he was pensioned by the family. He married Anne Rood, formerly
maid to Augusta Leigh, and was living in London in 1831.
Richard Ford (1796-1858)
Writer on art and Spanish affairs for the
Quarterly Review; he
published a
Handbook for Travellers in Spain (1839).
John Cam Hobhouse, baron Broughton (1786-1869)
Founder of the Cambridge Whig Club; traveled with Byron in the orient, radical MP for
Westminster (1820); Byron's executor; after a long career in politics published
Some Account of a Long Life (1865) later augmented as
Recollections of a Long Life, 6 vols (1909-1911).
Joseph Hume (1777-1855)
After service in India he became a radical MP for Weymouth (1812), Aberdeen (1818-30,
1842-55), Middlesex (1830-37), and Kilkenny (1837-41); he was an associate of John Cam
Hobhouse and a member of the London Greek Committee. Maria Edgeworth: “Don't like him
much; attacks all things and persons, never listens, has no judgment.”
Robert Jameson (1774-1854)
Professor of Natural History at Edinburgh University and author of
System of Mineralogy, 3 vols (1804-08).
Saint Joan of Arc (1412 c.-1431)
The French saint who relieved the siege of Orléan and encouraged resistance against the
English.
Mary Anne Leigh (d. 1840)
Seller of books and maps in the Strand. Her husband (or father?) Samuel apparently died a
suicide in 1831.
Godfrey Levinge (1846 fl.)
An Irishman who travelled in the east 1831-33, and published an account of the journey by
means of his private press. Likely the younger brother of Sir Richard George Augustus
Levinge, MP seventh Baronet (1811-1884).
Sir Charles Lyell, first baronet (1797-1875)
Scottish geologist educated at Exeter College, Oxford; he was author of
Principles of Geology (1830-33) and
The Antiquity of Man
(1863).
Margaret of Anjou (1430-1482)
Daughter of Rene, Duke of Anjou; she was the unpopular Queen Consort of King Henry VI of
England.
Cardinal Jules Mazarin (1602-1661)
Italian cardinal, the protegé of Richelieu and chief minister of Louis XIV.
Clemens Fürst von Metternich (1773-1859)
Austrian statesman who proposed the doctrine of a balance of power at the Congress of
Vienna, and who fostered repression of dissent within the subsequent Holy Alliance.
John Milton (1608-1674)
English poet and controversialist; author of
Comus (1634),
Lycidas (1638),
Areopagitica (1644),
Paradise Lost (1667), and other works.
Jacques de Molay (1243 c.-1314)
The last grand master of the Knights Templars; he was tried for heresy and burned.
John Murray II (1778-1843)
The second John Murray began the
Quarterly Review in 1809 and
published works by Scott, Byron, Austen, Crabbe, and other literary notables.
John Murray III (1808-1892)
The son of the Anak of publishers; he successfully carried on the family publishing
business.
Sir Francis Palgrave (1788-1861)
Barrister, medieval historian, and writer for the
Quarterly
Review; he was keeper of her majesty's records, 1838-61.
Robert Lambert Playfair (1828-1899)
British diplomat, the grandson of John Playfair; he was consul-general for Algeria and
Tunis (1885) and published
A Handbook for Travellers in Algeria
(1874).
Nathan Mayer Rothschild (1777-1836)
Jewish financier who opened a London branch of the family bank in 1805 and acted as an
agent of the British government in the conflict with Napoleon.
Adam Sedgwick (1785-1873)
He was educated at Trinity College, Cambridge, where he became a mathematics tutor in
1815 before being elected Woodwardian professor of geology (1818-73). He was a friend of
Charles Darwin.
Mary Somerville [née Fairfax] (1780-1872)
Mathematician and science writer, daughter of Admiral William George Fairfax (1739-1813)
and friend of Ada Byron; she spent her later years in Italy. She was twice married.
William Somerville (1771-1860)
Scottish physician, son of the historian Thomas Somerville and friend of Sir John Barrow
and John Murray, husband of the writer Mary Fairfax Somervillle; he was physician to
Chelsea Hospital (1819-38).
Agnès Sorel (1422 c.-1450)
Mistress of Charles VII of France, falsely rumored to have been poisoned.
Nicholas Soult (1769-1851)
Marshal of France and commander in the Peninsular War.
Mariana Starke (1762-1838)
English dramatist and travel writer; her
Travels on the Continent
(1820) became the basis for John Murray's series of guides.
Louis Tristan l'Hermite (d. 1477 c.)
Provost of France under Charles VII and Louis XI; he was renowned for his cruelty.
Frances Trollope [née Milton] (1779-1863)
Novelist, travel-writer and mother of Anthony Trollope; she married Thomas Anthony
Trollope in 1809. She published
Domestic Manners of the Americans, 2
vols (1832).
Sir John Gardner Wilkinson (1797-1875)
Egyptologist, author of
Topography of Thebes and General View of
Egypt (1835) and other works.
The Quarterly Review. (1809-1967). Published by John Murray, the
Quarterly was instigated by Walter
Scott as a Tory rival to the
Edinburgh Review. It was edited by
William Gifford to 1824, and by John Gibson Lockhart from 1826 to 1853.