My dinner at Calais was superb; I never ate so good a dinner, nor was in so good an hotel; but I paid dear. I amused myself that evening with walking about the streets of Calais, which pleased me exceedingly. It is quite another world, and full of the greatest entertainment. I most sincerely hope, one day or another, to conduct you all over it; the thought of doing so is one of my greatest pleasures in travelling. I was struck immediately with, and have continued to notice ever since, the extreme propriety and civility of everybody, even the lowest person; I have not seen a cobbler who is not better bred than an English gentleman. I slept well on a charming bed, after having drunk much better tea than I could have met with in England.
MEMOIR OF THE REV. SYDNEY SMITH. | 255 |
I found the inns excellent everywhere on the road, and the cookery admirable. The agriculture appeared to me extremely good; the instruments very clumsy, and the sheep, cows, and pigs miserable. The horses admirable for agriculture and seven miles an hour. At Paris I drove to several hotels and could not get admission; at last I found rooms at the Hôtel D’Orvilliers. I dined in a cafe more superb than anything we have an idea of in the way of coffee-house, and I send you my bill. A dinner like this would have cost thirty shillings in London. At this coffee-house I was accosted by Binda, who was dining there. My dinner was not good, for, not knowing what to choose, and not understanding the language of the kitchen, I chose the first thing upon the list, and chose badly; it is reckoned the best coffee-house in Paris.
In the morning I changed my lodgings to the Hôtel Virginie, Rue St. Honoré, No. 350. My sitting-room is superb; my bedroom, close to it, very good; there is a balcony which looks upon the street,—as busy as Cheapside;—in short, I am as comfortably lodged as possible: I pay at the rate of £2. 2s. per week. I am exceedingly pleased with everything I have seen at the hotel, and it will be, I think, here we shall lodge. God bless you all!