The Autobiography of William Jerdan
W. H. Ainsworth
B. p. 25.
Among incipient authors whom (to use a common phrase) it was in my
power to “take by the hand” and pull up the steep, few had a heartier help
than Mr. William Harrison Ainsworth, whose
literary propensities were strong in youth, and who has since made so wide a noise in
the world of fictitious and periodical literature. From some cause or another, which I
cannot comprehend, he has given a notice to my publishers, to forbid the use of any of
his correspondence in these Memoirs, though on looking over a number of his letters I
can discover nothing discreditable to him, or aught of which he has reason to be
ashamed. If the reluctance to have them, referred to was founded on a dislike to have
my early regard and its consequent amicable acts recorded, I think he need hardly have
entertained an apprehension of my boasting too much; and especially, as the
circumstances were always his own common and continual boast, and but too flatteringly
proclaimed on every apposite occasion to be agreeable even to my selfestimation. He was
only one of many to whose first essays I paid similar attention; and that I maintained
the same line of conduct in his case for years, as he pursued his popular career, only
proved that my first impression of his talents was confirmed by his sequent
productions. From “Sir John
Chiverton,” so full of promise, to “Jack Shepherd” (the evils to be caused by
which I did not foresee, and then spoke favourably of the graphic power it displayed),
and from “Jack Shepherd” to the writer’s
latest performance, it has ever been a pleasure to me to set him in the fairest colours
before the world; and he
* See “Life of Gerald Griffin,
Esq., by his Brother,” prefixed to the collected edition of
his works, 1842. |
need have been under no alarm for the
betrayal of private confidences in my illustration of our literary, or even social
relations. As far as gratitude was concerned, I must on the contrary say that he
evinced it for my services, “such as they were,” by all such returns as
good feeling could prompt; and that I was, by these friendly requitals, more than
compensated for the prominent part I took in promoting the interests of the Opera-house
when Mr. Ebers, his father-in-law, was the
lessee; or his own views when, for a short season, engaged in the publishing trade. In
his latter capacity, it afforded me high satisfaction to second his zealous exertions
towards bringing the first delightful poetic volume of Mrs.
Norton, in its best but true light, into public notice; the success of
which must have been heartily grateful to him as it was highly satisfactory to me. Then
with respect to his publication of the illustrious “Ude’s Culinary Book,” it was the
source of a hundred entertaining mental and corporeal treats which all the puffs in the
English tongue could not over-pay. Laughter at Ude’s quaintness and drolleries, and dinners of
Ude’s own cooking, after superintending which he dined
with the convives, were unique in their way as his ideas and conversations were
original. His lamentation for the loss of his cher Prince (the
Duke of York), who “shall miss me
wherever he has gone to” was ludicrously pathetic; and his theory that
the art of cooking in England should be studied and practised in subserviency to the
British Constitution, was superb, for he held that there ought to be the first,
highest, and most recherché preparations for His Majesty; a
second and hardly inferior course for the peerage, with an addition of painstaking for
the bench of bishops; a third still excellent for the legislators in the House of
Commons, and the orders on a level with these favoured members; and lastly, for he
would descend no lower, a suitable provision, richly sauced, piquantly seasoned, and
handsomely served for the gentry and upper commercial classes! Such a system he
contended, politically, must put an end to all discontent throughout the country, and
render Great Britain as peaceful and happy in reality as it was in the hypotheses of
foolish reformers and brawling patriots. Such was his notion of a Udine Constitution,
founded on the stomach, and upheld by the gustativeness of the lieges. As for his
literature, I subjoin a specimen submitted to my taste as one of the additions to the
second edition of his work, to which our joint efforts very
speedily conducted it.
“Potato Soufflé.—This dish as the
good adventage to be good and cheep. Take as must large potato as you have gest for
dinner, as this dish don’t looke well to be cut, whash them well, and select
for that dish the better in shap, put them in the owen to be donne as well as to
eat them with butter, then cut one opperture at the top, take out the in side with
a spoone and put this in a stewpane, with two or three spoone of double cream, a
small bit of butter, little salt, some sugar, litle lemon peel rasp in sugar, too
yelk of eggs, and add to it the white well frosted, and put the appareil to the
potato, and put this to the owen pretty hot, and warie the taste, some time lemon,
same time orange flower water, &c. This dish is very prety and not
vulgaire.”
But to return for a moment to the author of “Rookwood,” “Crichton,” and other deservedly popular
productions—an author who is rarely surpassed in spirit when his characters are in
action, and some of whose ballads and songs partake of the same sparkling vivacity—I
shall only mention that after the Review
of Crichton in the “Literary
Gazette,” Mr. Bentley waited
upon the writer the next morning, and offered him. 500l. for a
new novel. As Froth (whose disciple I, on some
occasions, feel myself rather disposed to be) says in the play, “I hope here
be facts.”
I do not remember what became of a project for a “Lyceum
Club,” built upon the pleasures of the Ude
gourmet symposia, but the mighty minister of amphytrionic luxuries has retired to his
mould, and Soyer, the magnificent, reigns,
cooks, writes, and publishes in his stead.
In speaking of Mr. W. Harrison
Ainsworth, I may take the opportunity of setting many readers,
particularly in the right, in respect to another author of nearly the same name, viz.,
Mr. William Francis Ainsworth, whom I have
frequently seen confounded with his cousin, though nothing can be more opposite than
their literary pursuits and works. Whilst Mr. W. Harrison
Ainsworth has revelled in the fanciful field of invention and lighter
composition, Mr. W. Francis Ainsworth has delved deeply into the
mines of learning and science, and classic antiquity. In geology I am not aware that he
has any superior, and his description of the marvellous caves of Bally-
| CAPTAIN WEDDELL. THE PIG. | 393 |
bunion, lashed by the stupendous
Atlantic wave on the southern coast of Ireland (which I have visited in consequence
with intense enjoyment) is an interesting proof of the truth of my opinion. His toils
and their results on Colonel Chesney’s
memorable exploratory voyage down the Euphrates, have contributed a very important
share to the geographical and other scientific values of that expedition; and his
admirably instructive papers and communications to the Syro-Egyptian Society (of which
he was a president), and to the Ethnological Society (of which he is one of the most
distinguished members), not to allude to his innumerable contributions to general
literature, mark him out conspicuously among the foremost of our living teachers of
useful knowledge. His noble enterprise in following the route of Xenophon and his ten thousand Greeks, and describing it
halt by halt, and step by step, is alone a monument of scholarship and ability enough
to perpetuate his fame to a late posterity. With modesty equal to his attainments, he
seems to me to have shrunk too much from the public reputation which is his due; and I
am well aware that if a man, however pre-eminent, does that, the noise and clamour of
the host of pretenders will bar him from being heard, and that this is not now the
country in which such qualities are sought out to be acknowledged and rewarded with the
distinctions they deserve.
William Francis Ainsworth (1807-1896)
Geographer and travel-writer, author of
Researches in Assyria,
Babylonia and Chaldaea (1838). He was the cousin of the novelist.
Richard Bentley (1794-1871)
London bookseller who in 1819 partnered with his brother Samuel (1785-1868) and in 1829
formed an unhappy partnership with Henry Colburn that was dissolved in 1832.
Francis Rawdon Chesney (1789-1872)
Irish military officer who visited Turkey in 1829, projected a Suez canal, and explored
the Euphrates Valley.
John Ebers (1785 c.-1858)
London bookseller in Old Bond Street; from 1820 he was one of the managers of the Italian
Opera at the King's Theater.
Frederick Augustus, Duke of York (1763-1827)
He was commander-in-chief of the Army, 1798-1809, until his removal on account of the
scandal involving his mistress Mary Anne Clarke.
Alexis Benoît Soyer (1810-1858)
French chef who worked in England from 1831; he published
The Modern
Housewife (1849) and other works.
Louis-Eustache Ude (d. 1846)
French chef who emigrated to London during the Revolution; he published
The French Cook (1813) and other works.
Xenophon (430 BC c.-354 BC c.)
Athenian writer; author of
Memorabilia (on Socrates) and the
Cyropedia (on the Persian King Cyrus).