“Love and fear are the greatest principles of human existence. If you owed my letter of yesterday to the first of these, you owe that of to-day to the last. What, in the name of all that is dreadful in the way of postage, could induce you to put the ‘Gazette’ in your letter? welcome as it was, it has cost me dear, nearly six shillings. I was so glad to see your hand-writing that the shock was lost in the pleasure; but truly, when I come to reflect and put it down in my pocket-book, I am ‘in a state.’ The ‘Gazette’ alone would have only cost twopence, and the letter deux francs; but altogether it is ruinous. Please when you next write, let it be on the thinnest paper, and put a wafer. Still I was delighted to hear from you, and a most amusing letter it was. The ‘Gazette’ is a real treat. It is such an excellent one as to make me quite jealous. I have, however, given but a hurried glance, having lent it to Colonel Fagan. I am now pretty well recovered from the fatigue of my journey, and have this evening sent round my letters. I was this morning à l’exposition, an admirable exhibition, a great stimulus to national industry. Such shawls! and the carpets are beautiful, and velvets which made into waistcoats would be too destructive.* Thence we went to the Louvre, certainly the most superb gallery in the world. I cannot but notice the politeness of the French to strangers; it

* This waistcoat became a sore jocular subject; for my kind friend tried to smuggle a “destructive” for me, but was detected flagrante delicto at Dover, stript to the skin, and divested not only of the male garment, but of other less fiscally obnoxious articles concealed in its vicinity.

L. E. L.

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was not one of~the public days, but all foreigners are admitted on showing their passports. Who do you think I met on the Boulevards to-day? Mr. Gore. He recognised me at once; was so polite, offered his services in any possible manner; and I dare say I should have found them an agreeable acquaintance; but unfortunately Mrs. Gore is just confined; they are quite the rage here. He asked so politely after you. Miss Gibbon I find such a pleasant companion; and ladies can walk in any part of Paris without the least molestation. I really know not what I should have done without her. We walked together till nearly ten o’clock in the Tuileries last night; such a gay-looking crowd. She and another young lady are gone to-night to the Champs Elysées. I, however, have staid at home to write to you. See what the fright of a few francs can effect. Gloves, stockings, shoes, &c., are exceedingly cheap here. Whether it is, perhaps, that one is more on the look out for them; but never were so many things assembled together. The French ladies, I must say, well deserve their reputation for tournure and grace. There is certainly an air, or something, which it is quite impossible to describe. They are not thought pretty generally. As yet I have really had nothing to put in a journal; my only approach to an adventure has been as follows:—I was advised, as the best remedy against the excessive fatigue under which I was suffering, to take a bath, which I did early one morning. I found it quite delicious, and was reading ‘La Dernière Journée,’ when I fell asleep, and was in consequence nearly drowned. I suppose the noise of the book falling aroused me, and I shall never forget the really dreadful feeling of suffocation, the ringing in my ears like a great bell with which I awakened. I think some very interesting papers might

194

AN AUTOBIOGRAPHY.

be written on the modern French authors. We know nothing of them. If I do write them I must buy some. At Galignani’s they only allow two works at a time, and I can scarcely get any that I desire. I am thinking of subscribing to a French library. One feels the want of a gentleman here very much. Poor Miss Turin is still ill. Miss Gibbon and I, even now, daily plan our return; but she cannot leave Paris till after an event, which is, however, daily expected. The dinners are exquisite. I wish, instead of a stupid letter, I could send you some of the plats. We have to use what is quite a rational phrase—such a gentil femme de chambre. You will perceive from the paper on which I write that I have at least made one purchase in Paris. I am so very glad that the dear girls* went to the theatre. How very kind you are. Remember me to all enquiring friends, and believe me,